- How to choose a brick for a foundation of this type?
- Brick foundation technology
- How to reinforce the brickwork of the foundation with your own hands?
Quite often, when choosing a foundation for a private house, a brick foundation is not considered because of its unreliability. It should be understood that this is a delusion.
The brick foundation has the following strength indicators:
- average strength indicators;
- high rigidity;
- poor resistance to low temperatures and moisture.
The service life of this type of foundation, subject to the rules and norms of laying, is about 40 years.
Benefits of a brick foundation:
- A partially destroyed base can be easily repaired by restoring the elements brickwork in the required places.
- The absence of large heavy structural elements allows you to independently build a foundation without the use of special equipment and hired workers.
- When the ground moves, there are no global destructions (this base is more flexible than a monolithic one).
- This design can be given any shape of the tape without the use of formwork.
Disadvantages of a brick foundation:
- The hygroscopicity of this building material allows moisture to easily penetrate into its structure, which negatively affects the stability of the base. The number of defrosting / freezing cycles of the red brick foundation is limited, therefore, reliable waterproofing is required.
- Shorter service life compared to concrete foundation.
- Limited area of use. When constructing a foundation on unstable soil, it will be necessary to increase the strength of brickwork from mechanical loads by performing reinforcement.
Materials that will be needed to build a red brick foundation:
- insulation;
- brick;
- waterproofing materials;
- cement mortar;
- materials for reinforcement (masonry mesh, reinforcement).
How to choose a brick for a foundation of this type?
Brick is the main material for this type of foundation. The reliability and durability of both the foundation and the private house as a whole depend on the correctness of his choice.
For home.
You should know which brick is not allowed to be used for the construction of such a structure. Foundation device from any hollow or silicate brick unacceptable. It absolutely does not matter how well the waterproofing will be done.
For laying the underground part of the base, it is necessary to choose a solid red ceramic brick, which is fired with high quality. It is characterized by high resistance to compression and is less exposed to moisture than others.
The above-ground part of the base, the upper floors and the plinth can be laid out of silicate white brick. It is allowed to use this building material for an above-ground foundation only on a dry layer of soil with a low occurrence of groundwater.
It is important to choose the right brand of material. In this case, you will need to take into account 2 main parameters: F (frost resistance) and M (load per 1 sq.cm). For the construction of the foundation, brick grades M300, M250, M200, M175, M150 with frost resistance F 35-100 should be used. For underground masonry, the water absorption value should be in the range of 7-15%.
Prices for brands of ceramic solid bricks vary between 8-20 rubles per 1 pc. The final figure will depend on the characteristics of the building material and the size of the purchased lot.
In 1 cubic meter brickwork will be approximately 400 pcs. To calculate the total required material, you will need to multiply the resulting volume by the number of bricks in 1 cubic meter of masonry.
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Brick foundation technology
First of all, it will be necessary to develop a base configuration on the site and calculate its volume, taking into account the possible load (mass of floors, walls, roofs) and the available soil properties. The width of the base should be calculated so that the tape is half a brick larger than the walls of a private house. This will make it possible, when installing floors, to conveniently lay the logs on the inner ledge.
Excavation. The trench under the brick foundation is dug in such a way that it is possible to lay a layer of material for waterproofing on both sides. On heaving and clayey soils, it will be necessary to backfill, so the width of the trench should be increased by at least 1 m.
The device of a pillow made of sand with a height of 0.1-0.15 m. The sand will need to be moistened and compacted until a flat surface is obtained.
Laying a layer of waterproofing. For more simple option it makes sense to use an ordinary roofing material, which is folded in several layers.
Installation of the formwork and pouring of the concrete cushion with a height of 100 mm. With the help of a concrete pad, it is possible to increase the bearing capacity of the base. Concrete can be reinforced with metal rods or steel wire.
Laying process. This work should be started after concrete mix freeze completely. Laying should begin with the removal of corners and continue with the dressing of seams of minimum thickness.
If not planned in the future, the seam should be flush. Otherwise, you can use ordinary internal seams. The seams between the bricks of the base will need to be filled with mortar. External plinth joints are facing, therefore they do not need to be filled with mortar.
As mentioned earlier, in areas with a high location of groundwater, it will be necessary to carry out backfilling. A sand cushion must also be made around the perimeter of the base. The space between the foundation walls and the walls of the trench should be filled with gravel, crushed stone, construction debris or coarse sand. Such a layer will contribute to the rapid departure of water during the melting of snow and prolonged rains.
To effectively protect the foundation of the house from atmospheric moisture, a beating is arranged; for this, the soil surface is concreted along the perimeter of the base with a slope to the outside, which makes it possible for water to drain freely.
Before erecting walls, it is necessary to make hydro- and thermal insulation of the horizontal upper part of the foundation.
Most often, a monolithic concrete foundation is poured under suburban low-rise buildings. However, sometimes brick is also used to assemble the base of the house. The choice of this material in most cases is determined by the fact that it can be used to build a very attractive, from the point of view of aesthetics, construction.
The advantage of using brick
The estimated service life of foundations built from this material is lower than that of monolithic ones. However, it has been observed that in practice the opposite is usually the case. If the concrete tape of the building is able to reliably protect the walls of the house from destruction for 200-300 years, then the service life of the brick base often exceeds 400. But of course, such a structure will be strong and durable only if its construction technologies are strictly followed. Further in the article, we will consider how to lay out a brick foundation with your own hands correctly.
When can brick be used instead of concrete?
The foundations of houses of this type are erected mainly only on dry, non-rocky soils. It is also desirable that the groundwater level at the construction site be as low as possible. On not too stable soils made of bricks, the foundation can only be assembled with a preliminary pouring of a concrete "cushion" and mandatory reinforcement. With a high occurrence of groundwater, special compounds are added to increase its waterproofing properties. Otherwise, such a base will quickly collapse due to high humidity.
For houses above three floors of brick, it is forbidden to build a foundation by building codes. In case of emergency, it is allowed to assemble a reinforced powerful base of this variety. However, in this case, the foundation comes out unreasonably expensive. Therefore, in practice, monolithic concrete foundations are usually erected under buildings from 3 floors.
Among other things, structures of this type are most often assembled under the walls of buildings made of lightweight materials. For example, a very good solution would be to build a brick foundation for a log house. Very well, this option is also suitable for a cobbled, panel house or for walls made of foam concrete. Under brick or monolithic structures such grounds are unsatisfactory. In this case, it is also advisable to build a monolithic reinforced concrete structure.
The regulations allow such grounds to be used not only for residential buildings, but also for any other structures. Very often, for example, a brick foundation is erected for a bathhouse, a gazebo, a garage. The technology for assembling such a base for structures for various purposes is almost the same.
How to choose material
There are many varieties of bricks on the market today. However, not all types of this material can be used for the construction of foundations. Suitable for this purpose only red ceramic brick, and even then not everyone. The indicators of the stone intended for the construction of the foundation of the house should be as follows:
strength grade not less than 150;
frost resistance from 35 cycles;
density not less than 1600 kg/m3;
water absorption - 6-16%.
In the people, a material that meets all these requirements is called iron brick. When choosing such a stone, one should pay attention, among other things, to its appearance. The scarlet color of the brick indicates that it is not burnt enough, and therefore not very durable and moisture resistant. The concave or convex edges of the stone, on the contrary, indicate that it was kept in the furnace for too long. Such a brick is fragile. It is possible to build the foundation of a house only from the highest quality material. Therefore, among other things, when buying a stone, you should pay attention to the reputation of the supplier and manufacturer.
Sometimes the owners of suburban areas, the foundation itself (its underground part) is assembled from red iron ore, and the base is made from silicate brick. Doing so is allowed by building codes. But only in the most extreme case - on dry soils and during the construction of some insignificant buildings ( summer kitchens, garages, sheds, utility blocks, etc.).
How to dig a trench
So how do you build a brick foundation with your own hands? Step-by-step instruction assembly of this structure will be presented below in the article in detail. However, first you should still figure out what the trench for this structure should be, as well as how to properly carry out the preparatory work.
It is allowed to build from the standards only columnar or tape bases of houses. Not collected from bricks and shallow foundations made of bricks. The sole of this design in any case should be located below the freezing level of the soil. For the southern regions of the country, this figure is 0.6-1 m, for the northern regions it can reach up to 2.5 m. The exact figures can be found in special reference books.
Trenches for a brick foundation will have to be dug not only deep, but also wide. Indeed, in this case, you need to make sure that the bricklayer has enough free space to complete the masonry. After the brick foundation is erected, this "extra" space is filled with expanded clay or light soil. This allows you to reduce the level of freezing for this particular place, as well as minimize negative impact on the underground parts of the structure during spring heaving.
Otherwise, trenches under such a base are dug out according to the same rules as under the usual monolithic one. That is, pre-marking is carried out using pegs and a cord (according to the method or "two curves"), and then earthworks are carried out.
Preparation of mortar for masonry
To quality brick foundation higher demands are made. After all, the life of the entire building depends on how reliable it is. Therefore, it is worth responsibly approaching not only the choice of the stone itself, but also the procedure for preparing the solution. Sand must be sifted before mixing. Lime is not added to the mortar intended for laying the foundation. The mixture must be prepared using a concrete mixer. The more homogeneous the composition, the better.
Construction of a strip foundation: preparatory work
In the trench dug under the base of the house, the bottom is carefully compacted and leveled. Next, a sand and gravel mixture 15 cm thick is poured onto it. The resulting “pillow” is carefully compacted with a rammer and water. Then equip a layer of waterproofing. To prevent the sole of the foundation from getting wet during operation, a roofing material (2-3 layers) is rolled out over the “cushion”. Simultaneously with the lower waterproofing, it is desirable to equip the side. To do this, additional strips of roofing material are glued to the canvas on both sides using bituminous mastic.
Mortar support device
On weak brick soils, the foundation, as already mentioned, is erected with the preliminary arrangement of a reinforced concrete "cushion". The latter is poured into a wooden formwork with reinforcement by a frame assembled from a 12 mm rod. The thickness of the “cushion” should be at least 10 cm. Before starting the assembly of the pillars, it must be allowed to stand for two weeks.
Strip foundation assembly
The first row of bricks is laid directly on concrete or roofing material, taking into account the subsequent dressing and filling of vertical joints with mortar. Next, the assembly of the foundation is carried out according to general rules with mandatory reinforcement, vertical and horizontal. It is possible to build the foundation of a brick house only with a single-row dressing of the seams. In order to reduce the adhesion of the walls of the structure to the ground, jointing is carried out (flush). The seams are not processed only if, in the future, the walls of the structure are supposed to be plastered for additional waterproofing.
Do-it-yourself reliable columnar foundation made of bricks: step by step instructions
In this case, not holes are dug under the base, as when using concrete mortar, but also trenches. After all, for laying pillars, a bricklayer needs a place. It is necessary to install supports under all load-bearing walls of the building. Without fail, the pillars must be laid out at the corners. They also need to be installed at the intersection of the walls. The minimum side length of a square post is 380 mm (1.5 bricks). Above the ground, the support should rise at least 20 cm.
To make the masonry even, first, box templates knocked down from the boards are installed in the trench. Under them, waterproofing is preliminarily laid and concrete pads are poured.
Masonry is carried out around these patterns. After several rows are laid out, the box is taken out. As a result, an empty space remains inside the column, which must be filled with concrete. Further, the laying is carried out, constantly trimming the bricks, to the desired height. In the empty space remaining in the center of the pillars, reinforcement is inserted (three 12 mm rods each) and the solution is poured.
Above ground, prefabricated poles are often connected with concrete tape. It is poured in the formwork with reinforcement. It is impossible to connect its parts with each other and with pillars. Instead of concrete, the space between the posts can also be simply bricked up.
Bath brick foundation
The principle of building a foundation for such a structure is the same as for a residential building. Most often, a do-it-yourself brick foundation for a bath is poured in the form of a continuous tape. However, if the walls are supposed to be panel, you can save money and get by with a columnar base. For basement strip foundation baths it is better to use red brick. Silicate is afraid of moisture. Also, when arranging the base under the walls of the bath, maximum attention should be paid to waterproofing.
made of bricks with their own hands for the gazebo
In this case, it will be enough to erect four pillars at the corners of the structure. Under very light gazebos, such foundations are sometimes not even buried. For large structures of this type, 6-8 supports are installed.
Like a brick strip foundation for a bath, the base for the gazebo should be waterproofed. Roofing felt must be laid under the supports in several layers. When pouring the empty central part of the pillars, dowels or rods are installed under the strapping and racks of the gazebo frame. Above the surface of the support, they should rise by 20 cm. The rods are also buried in concrete by 20 cm.
- A little about the properties of the soil
- The choice of brick for the foundation
- We start construction
- Types of brick foundations and their main properties
- Column Foundation
- Brick strip foundation
The construction of a small country house can be completely done on your own. Under such a house, a brick foundation is made. The main thing is to have a general idea of the process itself.
Brick is a familiar, relatively inexpensive, time-tested material. To work with it during the construction of small buildings: houses, utility or work premises, gazebos, etc., you will not have to involve a large number of people and use heavy construction equipment. This is the main advantage of bricks in self-construction. However, in order to get a reliable, durable and neat building as a result of such construction, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with some important points in advance in order to avoid making hard-to-correct mistakes.
A little about the properties of the soil
Before erecting any building: residential or commercial, it is necessary to carefully study the properties of the soil in the selected area. This is an important point in planning. The choice of the main construction technology, the need for additional work and much more depend on the properties of the soil.
The main property of the soil, taken into account when planning construction, is its heaving, i.e., the ability to expand upon freezing due to the formation of ice crystals inside the soil. It depends on the level of groundwater, climate, soil composition.
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The choice of brick for the foundation
If you are going to make a brick foundation with your own hands, you should remember that for this it is best to use red burnt solid brick. Such a brick has high strength, moisture resistance, durability. It is undesirable to build a foundation of red perforated or silicate brick, especially on heaving soil. Such bricks are easily saturated with moisture, lose their shape and gradually collapse. To reduce the cost of the foundation, you can use for its construction the brick left after the dismantling of buildings, or burnt brick, which has small shape defects.
Heaving can be high, medium or low. Experts from the soil laboratory will help to accurately determine its level and other properties of the soil on the site, who will conduct a complete analysis of the composition, moisture content and other properties of the soil using special equipment.
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We start construction
The tools needed to build a brick foundation must be prepared in advance so as not to interrupt work due to the absence of any of them. You will need the following fixtures:
- tape measure or laser rangefinder;
- bubble building level;
- plumb or laser level;
- hammer;
- pick;
- Master OK;
- cord;
- shovel;
- order;
- tanks for preparation and carrying of solutions from concrete and cement.
From the materials you will need:
- brick;
- sand;
- cement;
- concrete;
- water.
It is better to take all materials with a small margin, which is caused by the presence of errors in the calculations, the thickness of the binder layer and deviations in the geometric dimensions of the brick. It is desirable to use coarse river sand with a low moisture content. Before preparing the mortar, sand and cement must be sifted to prevent foreign objects and debris from entering the cement mortar.
In order for the foundation to be stable and durable, and the construction on it durable, it is necessary to carefully prepare for its construction. Main preparatory stages are:
- Selection of a specific site for construction.
- Determination of soil properties.
- Design.
- Marking the perimeter of the building with pegs and wire.
- Determining the quantity and purchasing the necessary materials.
- Preparation of tools and fixtures for future work.
When drafting a future building, it is necessary to take into account its estimated weight, area, location of load-bearing walls and internal partitions, and some other data.
You can entrust the drafting of the project to a specialist or use the standard option. This will avoid many difficulties and mistakes.
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Types of brick foundations and their main properties
The brick foundation can be made tape or columnar. On dense and dry soil, the foundation can be shallow.
If the soil is medium-heavy, then the depth of laying the foundation should be approximately 0.3 - 0.5 m below the freezing level of the soil. Especially with periodic changes in the groundwater level.
The type and depth of the foundation is also determined taking into account the severity of the future construction. A deep-lying strip foundation made of bricks is necessary for heavy buildings. It is quite possible to erect a light building on a columnar brick foundation.
In suburban low-rise buildings, for cottages and small houses, a brick foundation is often laid. This is explained primarily by the fact that the device of such a foundation does not require heavy equipment and is quite feasible with your own hands.
What is good and bad brick as a base for a house and how to choose it? How to build a brick foundation with your own hands?
Can brick be used for foundation?
The use of bricks for the installation of load-bearing structures has certain limitations:
- the maximum load on a brick foundation 0.3 meters wide should be at least 14 tons per square;
- such a brick is porous, it absorbs moisture well. In the spring, during the defrosting process, water destroys the material. When constructing a brick foundation, increased attention is paid to waterproofing, protection from soil water;
- on wetlands, in areas with regular floods and in the presence of underground sources / groundwater close to the surface, the installation of a brick foundation is excluded;
- tree roots damage the building. When laying a brick foundation for a house, it is advisable to uproot all the trees nearby, and this is additional labor;
- installation of a brick base is simple, but long. Laying takes more time than pouring concrete or driving piles.
We also note the advantages:
- shrinkage of a brick foundation occurs faster than other foundations;
- subject to all necessary protective measures during the installation process, the brick foundation is strong enough and durable (up to half a century of service);
- it is a breathable material;
- the foundation does not require heavy equipment (as in the case of concrete), high qualification of the stacker is not required;
- relatively small weight;
- ecological cleanliness;
- resistance to mold and rot;
- if there is no near-surface groundwater, laying a brick foundation does not interfere with the construction of an exploitable basement;
- good maintainability: individual sections can be restored without the need to renew the entire masonry and without the risk of collapse of the house.
note
Before deciding to build a brick foundation, you need to collect information about the characteristics of the soil (freezing depth, location of soil water, humidity). First of all, this applies to strip foundations.
What kind of brick is better to use for the foundation?
The composition of the brick is clay and silicate. The first is red, the second is white.
Density (and, accordingly, strength) is different, sizes too. The advantage of red brick is that it is made from fired clay. This feature gives him the best moisture-proof properties.
Red brick is divided into three types: ordinary, special (refractory,), front (facade, decorative).
Private is corpulent and hollow.
Application possibilities:
- hollow is used for partitions. It is not strong enough for a foundation;
- front (otherwise decorative, facing) is distinguished by good thermal insulation properties and aesthetic qualities. Suitable for cladding, not suitable for foundation either;
- special (aka refractory) is made with the addition of fireclay clay. Suitable for laying stoves and chimneys. For mounting the base, its advantages do not matter;
- ordinary solid, ceramic or clinker - a suitable brick for the foundation and other load-bearing structures.
How to choose a brick for the foundation?
The current retail price for a solid brick is at least 9 rubles per piece (depending on the region of sale). Be suspicious of too low a price. Most often it is a factory defect or a used brick. The second one may look good, but keep in mind that it has probably gone through several freeze/thaw cycles already. Under load, the old brick will not last long.
Distinctive features of quality bricks:
- color. If the material is too bright or faded, the color is uneven - it is likely that the production technology was violated during the manufacture;
- if the brick is uneven, crumbles easily - it is probably used;
- the foundation brick should not easily absorb moisture, this will lead to its rapid destruction;
- the ribbed side ensures good adhesion to the mortar.
The required strength should be - M125 or M200.
Brick foundation technology
Materials and tools that will be required for laying the foundation:
- the brick itself;
- waterproofing materials;
- components of the mounting solution: sand, cement;
- crushed stone;
- shovel;
- solution tank;
- preferably a drill (for mixing);
- level and tape measure;
- Master OK;
- cord and pegs for marking.
Strip foundation
- Dig a ditch around the perimeter of the future structure.
- Fall asleep at the bottom of 10 centimeters from a mixture of crushed stone and sand.
- Install waterproofing.
- Pour the bottom with concrete, wait for solidification.
- The brick is laid with a gap between the joints. Fastening with cement-sand mortar. All cracks are also filled with mortar. The width of the seam is not more than a centimeter.
- Reinforce the masonry with reinforcing mesh.
- After the cement has hardened, a waterproofing material is laid along the walls from the inside and outside.
- Fill the ditch along the walls with soil.
- Features and benefits of a brick foundation
- Columnar brick foundation
- Brick strip foundation
Modern building technologies are based on the use of reinforced concrete load-bearing structures, and this concerns the construction of building foundations in the first place. However, few people know that old houses, built 100-200 years ago and still standing on the streets of many cities, mostly have a brick foundation. This is especially true for two- or three-story wooden houses, in considerable quantities preserved in the middle lane. Despite this, they continue to stand and be used for their intended purpose. Many of them have a plinth at the base, made of the same brick.
Features and benefits of a brick foundation
Brick fully proves its reliability, having passed the test of time, despite many years of exposure to dampness and other adverse conditions. So today, houses built of wood, prefabricated panel structures or even foam concrete, whose walls do not have much weight, may well be based on a brick foundation. It is built much faster, and is incomparably cheaper than reinforced concrete. At the same time, it provides much better thermal insulation and is more affordable for repairs. If necessary, destroyed bricks are much easier to replace than sections of a concrete structure.
For the construction of a brick foundation, it is necessary to purchase consumables and prepare working tools:
- Brick, calculate the flow rate based on standard size 250x120 mm with a thickness of 65 mm. For laying the foundation, you need to take a monolithic, clay, red, well-burnt brick. Silicate is not suitable for this purpose in any case, since, although it can withstand heavy loads, it is not resistant to prolonged exposure to dampness. Facing brick on the contrary, it is quite suitable if in composition it resembles ceramics and is resistant to moisture.
- Cement and sifted fine river sand, which are mixed in a ratio of 1: 3 and diluted with water to the consistency of thick sour cream.
- A trowel or narrow spatula, a shovel and a trough for mixing cement mortar.
- Materials for waterproofing works: roofing felt, bitumen, polystyrene foam or polystyrene.
At the same time, depending on the mass and size of the future house, such a foundation can have both columnar and tape construction. These types and their construction have their own characteristics, which must be taken into account.
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Columnar brick foundation
It is advisable to use it for small summer houses, baths and lightweight summer cottages. First you need to mark its location. Brick pillars should be located at the corners of the structure, in places where they will intersect bearing walls, and also preferably along their perimeter at a distance of about 2 m from each other. To place such a column, you should dig a hole 1x1 m in size and 1 m deep. Sand is poured onto its bottom, which is poured with water and rammed for compaction. It forms a kind of cushion that will not allow the post to go into the heaving soil. Then the remaining volume of the pit is filled with crushed stone or gravel to a depth of 20-30 cm. It must freely pass water so that it does not swell the soil when it freezes. The gravel surface must be leveled with a layer of mortar, on which roofing material will then be laid in several layers, providing waterproofing.
After that, the laying of the brick itself can be carried out. The most common post size is usually 2x2 bricks. The bottom row is simply laid in 2 rows along the axis, the second is 2 bricks across, 4 along and again 2 across, the third is placed 2 along, 4 across and again 2 along, the fourth will be 2 rows across the axis. All seams must be tightly filled with mortar, and then the plaster and waterproofing of the masonry must be made. It is enough to lubricate it with bitumen or wrap it with roofing material, this will protect the brick from moisture and prevent premature destruction of the foundation.
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Brick strip foundation
If the house is a more solid structure with walls made of foam concrete or other block material, it is best to put a tape foundation under it. For its construction, it is necessary to dig a trench 1 m wide around the entire perimeter of the future building to the depth of possible soil freezing in winter. If the soil is wet and ground water lie close to the surface, then the trench should have a width of 1 m more than the width of the future house. This will allow you to equip the drainage system. Coarse sand is poured at the bottom of the trench, watered with water and carefully rammed.
Then, a formwork is constructed from boards at the bottom of the trench, the width of which should be about half a brick wider than the future foundation, and the height should be from 10 to 15 cm. A layer of waterproofing is placed on its bottom with a small margin to prevent moisture from rising to the brick, then a layer of concrete is poured , leveling its surface with the help of a building level. After 2-3 days, it will seize enough, the laying of the foundation itself begins.
The thickness of the brickwork of the foundation.
It is desirable to make its base somewhat wider, lifting upwards with ledges and bringing it to the desired width only on the top row. The brick is placed in a dressing, while between the first and second rows of masonry it is necessary to put a layer of reinforcement in the form of bars or mesh and the same layer between the penultimate and upper rows. This will prevent the possibility of destruction of the foundation in the direction of the longitudinal axis.
After the bonding solution of the masonry has hardened, after 1-2 days, its surface should be covered with waterproofing. Then the foundation should be insulated from the outside with foam or polystyrene.
After laying the foundation, it can be surrounded by a trench filled with sand to remove moisture and prevent swelling of the soil. If the humidity is high, then the following system is applied: a ditch is dug 50 cm from the foundation, on the bottom of which a layer of geotextile is placed, covered with rubble from above. A perforated plastic pipe with a slight slope is placed on it, covered with gravel and wrapped in the same geotextile. The pipe leading to the drainage ditch is covered with sand from above. This design will reliably remove excess water from the foundation and extend its life.
The foundation, laid out of brick, if built correctly, will reliably serve several generations of residents of the house.
