It doesn’t take much to build a garden house with your own hands, but the finished building is a real lifesaver in an open area. Even a small and simple house is enough to hide from the weather, store household equipment, and comfortably relax for children and adults.
Summer house options
One-stop solution for any site cottage with or without an attic. You can turn a summer house into a two-story house if equip a comfortable attic instead of an attic.
For comfortable outdoor recreation, a terrace is attached to the house - open or with a canopy. In good weather, it serves as a dining room or playground for children. It all depends on the area and configuration.
Note! The terrace is easy to decorate with decorative lighting, curly flowers.
If the garden house will be operated only in the warm season, then it is not necessary to lay a heating system in it. On cold evenings and nights enough heater. And this will require wiring.
Whatever version of the garden house you choose, before construction you need to draw up its project. It will help to calculate the load on the foundation, the amount of materials needed.
What to build a garden house from
You can build a garden house with your own hands from bricks, timber, concrete blocks. Each option has advantages and disadvantages.
Lightweight with a thickness of 150 mm – at first glance economical and easy construction option. Lumber lays down easily, looks beautiful, suitable for any option. fine finish. However, such a house does not retain heat well in spring and autumn, which entails considerable costs for the heating system and electricity.
Summer houses made of foam blocks can withstand heavy loads even with a wall thickness of about 30 cm keep warm in the off-season. The special block laying technology minimizes cold bridges and prevents condensation in the premises. However, specialists must build according to a carefully designed project.
Brick houses are no less reliable than block houses, but they require at least external insulation. With a thickness of external walls of 1-1.5 bricks, this can be facade plaster, a “ventilated facade” system or a combination of expanded polystyrene with facing brick. The design is warm, strong, durable, but not cheap.
Worthy of attention deserves the technology of frame construction. It allows you to build a light but durable garden house with the lowest financial and labor costs. Moreover, its design is such that repairs and additional insulation will not require much effort.
Do-it-yourself frame garden house
The frame technology for building a summer house is simple, it implies multiple base options and wall cladding. But how to build a small garden house with your own hands, if there is no experience? Without step by step instructions to work and knowledge of some secrets is indispensable here.
Shallow-depth withstands a large load. Suitable for device on heaving, but not on peat, sapropel, clay soils. The width of the base is 10 cm more than the thickness of the walls, the height is about 50 cm. Usually, such a foundation lies above the groundwater, therefore, in the spring, it goes up with them and then goes down.
Note! On device strip foundation it is possible to equip a cellar under the summer house, for example, to store garden tools.
The device of a shallow strip foundation is performed according to the scheme.
- Mark out the site using pegs and a cord stretched between them, which marks the boundary of the future pit.
- Taking into account the markup, they dig trenches under the foundation.
- A sand and gravel cushion (15 + 15 cm) is laid at the bottom of the trench. It is spilled with water in order to better compact it.
- The walls of the pit are covered with a layer of waterproofing material, for example, roofing material.
- From boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm, formwork is mounted for pouring concrete. It should protrude 30 cm above ground level.
- The trenches are being poured concrete mix.
- Cover the base with foil and periodically moisturize so that the concrete does not crack.
With potentially large loads, the foundation is additionally reinforced. The process is quite laborious, so it is worth correlating the scale of the house under construction with the cost of laying the foundation.
Shallow block base
For a small and light garden house, a shallow columnar base of individual concrete blocks is sufficient. fit elements measuring 20x20x40 cm.
Holes are dug under the blocks with a depth of about 50 cm. Layers are laid at the bottom:
- waterproofing;
- sand - 15 cm;
- crushed stone - 15 cm.
On top of such a "pillow" concrete blocks are laid in two rows. For fixing use cement brand M-150. The result is poles that protrude about 20 cm above ground level.
It is important! The second row of blocks is laid across the first.
Ground screws foundation
Geo-screws are similar to screw piles, but shorter. They are used for light and small buildings. Categorically not suitable for work on floating and loose soils. bottom harness frame house mounted on the heads of geoscrews.
Advantages of technology:
- no special equipment is needed for work;
- stones and even medium cobblestones in the ground are not obstacles for ground screws;
- Not needed preparatory work Location on;
- raising the frame can be done immediately after screwing in the last ground screw.
Geo-screws are screwed into the ground strictly vertical. To do this, using hand drill first, pits are made with a depth of 35-50 cm. Geo-screws are inserted into them, which are twisted by hand. It is enough to insert a crowbar into the head and use it as a lever. On dense soils for these purposes is suitable a piece of metal pipe with handles welded to it. The design is put on the head and also serves as a lever.
Some craftsmen buy multipliers in stores, connect them to an electric drill using a metal pipe, and thereby increase the torque of the device. Finished construction, fixed on the head, allows reduce the time for screwing geoscrews. Work starts from the corners. Vertical alignment of ground screws is performed after they are buried in the ground by about 1/3.
Wooden frame assembly
The assembly of the wooden frame begins with the bottom strapping. For this use board with a section of 5x15 cm or timber - 15x15 cm. The selected lumber is laid on the foundation along the waterproofing layer (roofing material). In corner joints, wooden strapping elements are connected by cutting "half a tree". On the foundation, the strapping is fixed with anchor bolts. Logs are laid across for the future floor, maintaining a distance between them of 50 cm.
Raise the frame, starting with the installation of the bars in the corners. Intermediate racks are fixed in increments of no more than 200 cm. For this, a “half-tree” cut and reinforced steel corners are used. To give the structure rigidity, in the corners set temporary supports - braces. Provide for door and window openings.
After that, similarly to the bottom, the upper trim of the frame is assembled, the cross beams of the floor are fixed and the truss system is mounted.
Note! Part of the roof can be assembled in advance, and then lifted up. So, with the device hip roof it is convenient to first assemble the ridge run and the central rafters on the ground, and then fix the diagonal rafters at the top.
Wall and roof cladding
After assembling the frame, proceed for wall and roof cladding. For the walls of an unheated small house, OSB is most often used - oriented strand boards.
For external cladding, OSB-3 weatherproof boards are chosen.
They are attached to the racks with wood screws, without screwing them in until the end by about 1-2 mm. This is necessary so that the plates have the opportunity expand with changes in temperature and humidity. In this case, the joints of the plates should fall on the frame rack. Subsequently, these seams are puttied. In a similar way, they sheathe a house from OSB from the inside with their own hands. Siding, facade plaster will serve as a finishing facing material.
As roofing material use tiles, corrugated board. The second option is preferable for a garden house, as the material is lightweight and low cost. For fastening corrugated board use self-tapping screws for metal. The most important thing in the work is to correctly and evenly install the first sheet.
It is important! If you want to insulate the building, then to protect the heat-insulating material and wood, you will need a hydro- and vapor barrier - a polyethylene film and a vapor barrier membrane.
When building a small garden house, it is important to chase not beauty, but for reliability, convenience and performance. What is the use of a beautiful building if it is cold even in late spring? However, in order to obtain a high-quality result, it is important to strictly observe the construction technology.
Ownership suburban area gives you the opportunity to fully enjoy the fruits of your country work and get some rest at the fragrant shish kebab feast. But what is a site without any building on it. And if there are no funds for capital construction, then you can build economy-class country houses, which will become a seasonal haven for vacationers or workers in the country, and will also serve as storage for all garden tools.
About what is cheaper to build a garden house and how to do all the work correctly, in our material below.
Materials for the construction of an inexpensive country house
To understand what you can save on when building a country house, and how to build a cheap cottage, you need to explore all possible options. building material. So, you can build an inexpensive cottage with your own hands from the following materials:
- Frame-panel fragments. Here, a beam is used for mounting the frame, and chipboard, fiberboard, OSB, etc. can be used as sheathing. Polystyrene or mineral wool boards can be used to insulate such a house (if desired). As a result, the house can be operated not only in the warm season, but also in winter. A feature of the installation of such a frame-panel house is its indisputable savings. After all, it is fashionable to mount the building practically from improvised means, which every summer resident / gardener / craftsman will surely have a lot of. In extreme cases, you can borrow the remnants of the material from the neighbors.
- A log house can also be made in the country. Such construction will cost a little more, but at the same time the house will be stronger and more durable. The only drawback of wood (especially if the cheapest planed timber is used) is that it shrinks. As a result, cracks and gaps appear in the walls. You will have to additionally insulate the building so that you can operate the country cottage without problems.
- In response to the question of how to build a cottage cheaply, we can advise you to build clay building. That is, to make a kind of adobe house. The construction technology is simple and similar to modeling. The materials for installation will cost the master almost nothing, since the clay and straw from which the adobe house is built is practically underfoot. So clay country house with proper observance of all installation rules, it can become a durable building for any season. The only drawback of a adobe house is that it will take a lot of time to build it. Maybe not even one season.
- Caravan house. This version of the device of a country cottage inexpensively is the simplest. You can find a more or less decent trailer, which is simply installed on the site. If desired, water and sewerage are supplied to such a trailer.
Important: for any type inexpensively country house it is possible to arrange lightweight types of foundations - pile or tape shallow. And this is an additional point of savings in construction.
Frame-panel house: work technology
To build such a house frame technology you will need to prepare the material in accordance with the specified perimeter of the building. From the materials you will need the following:
- A bar with a section of 100x100 to create a frame for a house;
- Self-tapping screws and metal corners for fastening frame racks;
- Boards or plates of fiberboard, chipboard, OSB;
- Warming material (if desired);
- Piles for the foundation and a metal channel for tying the piles.
We work in this way:
- In the designated places at the corners of the future house, it is worth mounting driven piles. The supports are also mounted under the joints of the walls and under the bearing partitions, if any, in the project of the house. As supports, you can also mount monolithic concrete pillars, as well as brick supports. In any case, the pillars are mounted on a sand cushion to a depth of at least 60 cm. In this case, both concrete and brickwork should be reinforced.
- The finished supports are tied with a channel or an I-beam, spreading waterproofing material over the pillars.
- Then, a timber crate is laid on the resulting belt, which will become the base plate of the frame. That is, the beam should lie around the perimeter, and on top of the beam strapping they arrange wooden logs with a step of 50-60 cm. All wooden elements are securely fastened together with metal corners and self-tapping screws.
- Now it's the turn of the vertical beam racks. They are mounted in increments of 50 cm, securely resting against the timber strapping. For additional fixation of the longitudinal supports, jibs are arranged on each side. You can also mount cross jumpers.
Tip: it is better to assemble the frame on the ground in parts, and only then raise it and fix it to the base.
- As soon as the entire frame is ready, the upper strapping of the vertical racks is performed. And on top of the upper belt, attic or floor logs are laid.
- The finished frame is sheathed with selected shields, securely fixing them and leaving room for window and door openings.
- From above, the house is sheathed with any insulating material, not forgetting to lay steam and waterproofing materials.
- As exterior finish you can choose a profiled sheet or siding.
Important: in order to further save on the construction of a house for a summer residence, the roof is made single-pitched and covered with light roofing materials.
- Additionally, you can save on the installation of simple wooden window frames and doors. This is how it turns out to quickly build a house.
Timber country house
In this case, the work will be performed in a different sequence. First of all, it is worth preparing such material:
- Bar of any section. But it is worth remembering that the larger the cross section of the material, the stronger the finished house will be.
- Wooden dowels made of hard wood.
- Roofing material.
- Board for the floor.
The work is carried out in this way:
- First arrange the foundation. It can be either tape shallow (40-60 cm in height, including the base), and columnar / pile. But in any case, the concrete should dry well, and its top and all other sides should be waterproofed with high quality.
- On top of the foundation, a lining board made of moisture-resistant wood is laid. At the same time, the board is fixed to the foundation with construction anchors, deepening them by 15-20 cm into the base.
- After that, the laying of the timber begins, joining it at the corners into the bowl. That is, you will have to work extra, forming grooves for laying the timber.
Important: each crown must be controlled horizontally.
- After 2-3 rows of crowns, the timber is additionally fixed with construction dowels. To do this, holes are drilled to the entire height of the stacked three crowns, which are staggered. Dowels are stuffed into the holes. At the same time, it is worth remembering that the next time the dowels need to be shifted relative to those already mounted below.
- Fully assembled walls are covered with floor beams, cutting them into the upper crown. The beams are laid in increments of 40-60 cm, and then they are covered with a floorboard.
Important: the floor in the house is arranged according to the same principle. If desired, both the upper and lower floors can be insulated with mineral wool or polystyrene slabs.
- Roof finished log house can also be made single-sided in order to save money.
Tip: a house made of timber needs time to shrink for about six months or a year. It is recommended to cut window and door openings after the tree has shrunk. Otherwise, the house can lead a lot.
clay house
If you don’t know what to build a cottage from, then try to mount an environmentally friendly adobe house in the country. You'll have to drive here. The fact is that for the construction of such a building, a large amount of clay and straw should be prepared ahead of time from the summer. It is these components that will become the main ones in the construction of a cheap house.
- So, after the clay rests for the winter, it can be put into action. To do this, clay is loaded into a specially prepared pit and moistened with water in an amount of 20% of the total mass of the material. Chopped straw moistened with water is also added here. The straw cutting length should be 9-16 cm.
- The whole mass is thoroughly mixed. You can with your feet. And for the strength of the adobe mixture, lime can be added to the solution. It will strengthen the fortress of the finished house.
- The mass is left overnight, and in the morning adobe blocks are made from it. To do this, the mixture is rammed into a specially prepared form, cutting off the top of the mixture with a fishing line or wire. Five holes are made in the blocks so that moisture can freely leave the brick.
- Finished blocks are knocked out and laid on a platform under the sun, arranged at an angle.
- After two or three hours, the blocks can be transferred to the shade and left on edge until completely dry.
- Thus, a sufficient amount of adobe brick should be prepared.
- The construction of the house is carried out on the foundation laid in advance. Laying is performed according to the principle brickwork. And the same clay mass is used as a solution. The width of the seam in this case should be no more than 1 cm.
Important: you need to lay adobe blocks no more than two rows per day. This is necessary so that the adobe mixture can dry thoroughly. At night, the rows of masonry are covered with a film.
- Once the walls of the adobe house are ready, they can be plastered inside and out.
- The floor in such a house is made on the ground, first laying waterproofing, and then laying logs and insulation between them.
- The roof of an adobe house can be any, but it is important to make good ledges (at least 70 cm) so that the moisture of rain or snow does not spoil the clay walls. When arranging the windows of an adobe house, it is worth making visors over the frames and ebbs in the window sill area. A house built in this way will serve the family for decades.
trailer house
The simplest type of country house for a seasonal stay, as an answer to the question of how to build a summer house. Moreover, the trailer can be installed simply on brick pedestals-supports, installed simply on a sand cushion. There should be one support post per meter of trailer length. The trailer, if desired, can be insulated, and then such a country house will become cozy even in winter.
Remember: build country house you can do it yourself from any material, the main thing is to comply with all the basic requirements for each type of raw material used.
Upon purchase land plot the most pressing question is how to build a dacha and, importantly, how to build a dacha cheaply.
There are many ways to build a country house. It can be built from brick, expanded clay concrete, wood, gas silicate blocks or a combined material. Each material has advantages and disadvantages, so the choice depends on the purpose of the building and the functions required of it.
In order to build a cottage inexpensively with your own hands, you should pay attention to frame construction. Frame houses are built very quickly, and if you use inexpensive Decoration Materials, such houses are much cheaper than others.
Our example tells how to properly build a cottage on a frame basis. We will build a one-story house, with a veranda and a gable roof.
Stages of building a cottage
1. Pouring the foundation
Any construction starts with a foundation. For our frame house you will need columnar foundation. First, with a hand drill, we drill holes 80-100 cm deep along the perimeter and over the entire area of the future structure. As a formwork, a roofing material tube with a diameter of 20 cm is used. We insert roofing material sleeves into the corner pits and fill it with concrete mix, insert the studs.
Then we fill in all the other piles, level, tamp the ground around the pillars. We leave the concrete to "ripen".
2. Lower frame trim
From the boards with a section of 15x5 cm, laid on the foundation, we make the lower harness. We fix all strapping boards with screws. We align the lower part of the frame and make grooves for the floor log, having previously marked their location.
We attach the logs to the strapping and the pillars of the foundation. Be sure to do antiseptic treatment of the boards.
3. Draft floor
We lay the subfloor boards on evenly spaced logs. After fixing them, we cover them with glassine, attach the bars and lay a layer of foam.
We add bars at the junction of moisture-resistant OSB boards and put another layer of foam. Gaps and cracks are sealed with mounting foam.
We complete the creation of the platform by laying 12 mm OSB boards and fixing them with nails.
4. House walls
There are several ways to build the walls of a frame house. You can initially build the entire frame from load-bearing boards, and then do wall cladding or build each wall separately. In our case, the frame of a separate wall is first fixed, and then sheathed with slabs. Be sure to use jibs to support the structure.
In the right places we make openings for windows and doors, strengthening them with additional bars. We install interior partitions and top trim.
5. Rafter system
After the final construction of the walls, we proceed to the installation of rafters, pre-made from timber according to the template. The structure is reinforced with a horizontal lintel.
We cover the rafters with a waterproofing material and make a crate and a counter-crate of the roof. We attach an anti-condensation film. We cover the roof with a metal profile with a wave height of 21 mm. We close up facades with plates.
6. Exterior finish
We cover all external walls of the house with siding over OSB boards. We install windows and doors.
Since you are reading this article, a vacation outside the city on your site is attractive to you. A country house for this, of course, is necessary. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of saving not only money and their labor, but also land. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands, perhaps easier, faster, easier and cheaper. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allows you to wait out a long bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.
Where to start
The first question that needs to be solved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where - it is already known, the site will not be moved anywhere. According to the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, developed or selected for it. finished project, and then - estimates, purchases, and for business. We will start with the choice of material.
What to build from?
Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: it is very difficult to build them on your own. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal ground movements and therefore require a foundation that is no less reliable than a full-depth tape foundation (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the bottom of the tape). The foundation of full penetration must stand to give its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer until full spring warmth next year. The same endurance is required for insulated slab foundations, for example. swedish plate. There is, however, a type of foundation for wooden houses, which does not require a technological break (see below), but the timber or log structure itself must shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. That's why a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles / sq. m) and difficult to build on your own.
The same situation occurs with brick houses And . Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be appropriate only in very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built 2-storey; brick and lumber technologies allow an unprepared, but attentive and accurate builder to build a house on 2 floors. Examples of the layout of compact 2-storey brick and timber houses are shown in Fig.:
Note: it is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. The construction of a country house from foam / gas blocks makes sense if the cottage is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and there will be less heating costs.
The simplest and quick ways construction of a small house - assembly from a ready-made panel house kit or structurally insulated panels (SIP). A 20x20-foot (6x6 m) prefabricated house is set up in a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental ability trained according to the instructions for the kit. No joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles / sq. m. Without foundation.
A SIP house will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rubles/sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held on locks between the panels. In order for a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have a lot of internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.
So we come to the conclusion: to build a country house, so that it is fast, simple and inexpensive, you need it from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.
Project
Inexpensive garden and / or compact country house it is better to build according to a standard project; see below for essential construction details. A ready-made free project of a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - a detailed standard project of a garden house for 300 rubles. find really on the relevant sites.
How to choose easier and cheaper
However, when sorting through projects, it is necessary to take into account some significant circumstances, namely, the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and laying the foundation. It's the frosty heaving of the soil. With seasonal shifts, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll over in waves. Summer cottages they are cut on various soils, but having one common property - sufficient self-connectivity, otherwise no one needs such a dacha. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight heel.On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. Here the square-cube law, well known to technology (and stubbornly overlooked by amateurs), operates here. It is easy to test it by experience: glue cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple one and the other. The third factor is the intrinsic cohesion of the soil is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.
Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in terms of fit into a circle of a certain diameter, then on ordinary soils of garden plots it can be built on an unburied foundation, which is much faster, easier and cheaper. In what circle should the project of a wooden house fit in the plan, so that it can be built on an unburied foundation on soils up to and including medium-heavy ones, is shown in fig. It all depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more square the house, the better it plays out seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tramway” houses for narrow sections, without looking closely, on the foundation of a normal depth. But if the ratio of "sticks" T-shaped house lies within 1 Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected with its design. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or are hinged to it are excluded from the projection of the house in the plan. We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. We only recall that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils, except for non-rocky ones, it is necessary to lay a normally buried tape or TISE foundation. The slab foundation with insulation “settles down” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to split. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, it is possible to lay a foundation on geo-screws (see below) with a steel grillage. An unburied foundation for a compact country house is the easiest and cheapest way to assemble a columnar foundation from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. Blocks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; top across the bottom. Thus, the column is obtained in terms of 400x400 mm. Pit pits for posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15 + 15 cm falls on the anti-rock sand and gravel pillow. It makes no sense to deepen the columns of blocks by more than 20 cm: the dressing of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the frost heaving forces will tear the columns. The number of rows of blocks in the column is made more than 2, if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. a week. The recessed foundation of a compact house is often, following the model of large buildings, piled on bored piles in soft roofing material formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are taken to the pile shell, which makes it possible to compensate for the height difference along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast small-sized construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - it must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring. Note: there is no point in laying the TISE foundation for a light compact house - the "caps" of the TISE piles normally work in the ground only under a sufficient weight load from the building. Of the small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one is capable of creating one. The best option for a recessed foundation for a compact house is on geoscrews. Geo-screws are a type of shortened screw piles especially for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, ground screws are not designed for swampy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a self-made tape foundation, because. ground screws are not cheap in themselves, but for a small house this is not so scary, since few screws are required. A geo-screw for soils of low and medium density, according to the principle of keeping it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a furniture confirmatory screw and also looks like it, see Fig.: The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Those and other ground screws can be used on soils up to excessively heaving. On the heads of geoscrews, you can either lay the wooden lower trim of the structure, or mount a steel grillage. For information on how a wooden house is built on screw piles, see, for example. track. video: The advantages of ground screws for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are enormous: Note: if you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them about whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil. We come to the very essence: what kind of simple country house will be built cheaper and most likely? In ascending order of cost, complexity and time of construction, as well as potentially aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are next. way: KUNG is an abbreviation for a Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Size. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War and, thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung change house from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and putting it on posts, concrete supports of grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone pillow (so that weeds do not germinate and annoying living creatures do not start). The foundation for the kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle. The kung has only one drawback as a country house: a utilitarian appearance, which any designer's attempts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages: It is better to look for a kung for a country house from ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 cars (see fig.): they have a flat floor and it is easier to put them on posts due to small or no recesses for wheel niches. You need 6 columns (it can be brick folded dry): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and easier to convert into housing than Ural and KAMAZ ones. Note: do not take non-standardized "booths" from the ancient ZiS's and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and insulation is no good. The width of the kung is standard according to the zero auto-dimension (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. laying a deep foundation. For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-slot kung (two-slot), on the left in fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. Kung change houses (top left and right in the figure) already provide normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung from old hardware communications. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some application of your hands from such a kung, you get not a house, but a candy, at the bottom right in fig. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance inside) compartment for the autonomous power supply (BEA) gas unit: a mini-toilet with a shower is placed in its place. Removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get a place for a gas stove for 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself, as if on purpose, is intended for garden tools, planting material, etc., and with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, there are side windows in the hardware communications kungs, which can not be said about all kungs - military cabins. Chalet means hut, and what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. A country house-hut is durable almost the same as a kung, because. its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small house-hut (approx. up to 4x6 m) can be placed on a non-buried foundation on any soil, except for excessively heaving. Materials for a hut house are required 1.5-2 times less than for a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimum set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage inherited from the ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any finish in any landscape, see fig.: There are few drawbacks to the chalet. The house-hut retains all its advantages up to a size in terms of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small-sized hut, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that's all. In America and Canada, single hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare farmer, who remembers), on the left and in the center in the figure: Arrangement of a single-seat house-hut - a shelter and a 3-seat country house But a house-hut of only 3x3 m in plan can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, there are few heating costs, because. the relative area of heat loss of a house-hut is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercially inhabited from the first spring heat to the winter cold, then the hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung. The construction of a hut house with dimensions in terms of up to 6x4 m is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins): The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason why few build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw more”. Drawings of a house-hut 3x3 m for two or three are given in Fig.: The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, as well as intermediate frames, is timber 150x75. Firstly, on the facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tightening (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge run, a ridge beam of the same section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and upper straps (longitudinal stiffeners) from the same beam. Longitudinal and transverse bonds are connected by a half-tree tie-in. Those. using the example of a 4x6 m house, it is already clear how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house grow with an increase in its size. Note: on the lower screed, 2 more ends of the beam 100x75 are visible on the sides of the window. They are supported by internal partitions. The door frame on the other façade extends up to tightening and is made of timber 75x150; the lower screed of this facade is split. If this house is without a base, the window frame is similarly performed. In the general concept of a bungalow, this is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, a “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because. it is spacious, well ventilated, does not overheat by the Sun, and in construction it is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive. However, today little is known to professional builders outside the tropics that the bungalow is also a kind of building technology. Bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the wilds of Russia, the north of the USA and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still habitable. A house built using bungalow technology is easily recognizable by its 2-layer sheathing of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right. Bungalow, as a technology of wooden construction, combines elements of half-timbered structures and frame with working sheathing. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a footprint. advantages: The disadvantages of building using bungalow technology are, firstly, the increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of openings: the outer skin boards need to be cut in place to fit the trim, otherwise pockets are formed - moisture traps. Bungalows as shelters are generally more popular than huts due to better habitability. In a bungalow, you do not have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat. The device of a bungalow-type shelter is shown in the figure: Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelters The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, an unburied strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If columnar or pile, then 12 supports are needed: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical rack) on the others. This house can be extended in length up to 3-3.5 m. Then, if you do not lengthen acc. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies. The “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation with dimensions of 4x5.875 m is, of course, more complicated in plan (see the next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of "real" recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but already for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev. the option is excellent also on strongly heaving soils. The main features of the bungalow as a building technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from a bar from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is given by the sheathing of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use, because under each joint of sheets, lining racks and valleys are needed. Bungalow construction schemes are given in the figure: The truss floor structures are not conventionally shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled in a half-tree and into a spike, and the spikes of the racks are on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners even without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the scheme for reinforcing the corners in the center in fig. It is unacceptable to use steel corners, linings, etc. in this case! For the Old Testament "oakness" you have to pay with labor. Sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (bulges of annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: inner inside, outer out. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood, the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of "humpbacks" it will split and the whole house will weaken. All boards are attached to the frame along short (end) edges with three (not in pairs!) Nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also fastened along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or with a snake (zigzag) in increments of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along short edges with pairs of fasteners; long - in a row with the same step. The assembly of the power frame of the bungalow is a very important stage of work. And laborious, because you can’t hammer staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were placed in wedging. The frame of the house using bungalow technology is assembled in the next. order: The frame mini-house does not have any features compared to the large residential one; the scheme of its device is given in Fig.: The order of construction is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a "classic" frame house 6x4 m:
The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut house and a bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: a simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig. Also, the design of the frame house is very plastic. On the one hand, it forgives rather gross mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative lovers a certain scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about the construction of a small frame house-shelter:
It is only necessary to add to this plot that the comments of the audience about the insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive out” the dew point once and for all outside, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used to prevent condensation in the insulation layer and further inside: EPPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) . The crossbar of the roof (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a feature. It is determined by its small size, and, as a result, the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the absence in it (forgive the clericalism), put a load-bearing partition (internal main wall). To hold the latter, a fully connected foundation is needed; at least - tape normal depth. Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof beam) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b): In the first, the rack of the truss truss rests on a transverse screed beam, and in a layered truss, on a load-bearing partition; split tie. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the roof trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the well-known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like according to skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge timber - 100x75 and Mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame Mauerlat, a beam of the upper trim can directly serve. The topic of this article is the construction of a garden house with your own hands. We have to get acquainted with the main points of the construction of a very specific design - a frame house with insulated walls on a columnar foundation, covered with bituminous tiles. Why did we choose this particular project? To clarify: some alternative solutions (for example, sip panels) guarantee better insulation with greater structural rigidity. So let's get started. The construction of garden houses, like any other, begins with marking and laying the foundation. Since the material for sheathing the wall frame will be OSB (oriented strand board), which has standard dimensions of 2500x1200 mm, it will be logical to make the length of each wall a multiple of the smaller of its dimensions: 3.6, 4.8 meters, etc. The maximum step between the pillars should not exceed 2 meters. This applies not only to the perimeter: internal partitions must be supported by their own props. After the position of the supports is marked, we proceed to their construction: Please note: the height of the grillage (and, accordingly, the pillars) must be at least +25 cm from the ground level. The material of the grillage is larch, a wood that is exceptionally resistant to decay. Cross section - 150 mm. The beam is drilled where it will sit on the anchor; in the corners, the grillage is connected in half a tree. They will be boards 50x150 mm with a step of 60 cm, placed on edge. The lag material in this case does not matter much: inexpensive pine is quite suitable. Logs can be attached directly to the grillage beam with galvanized corners using galvanized self-tapping screws. The construction of garden houses used for living in early spring and late autumn implies their insulation. It is necessary to insulate, among other things, the floor. The flooring of 40 mm tongue-and-groove boards is laid after the frame has been built. Corner posts and upper trim are made of timber 100x100 mm; fastening - already familiar to us galvanized corners. At the time of the construction of the frame, the racks are reinforced with slopes; the structure will reach full rigidity after sheathing. Material for intermediate racks and crossbars - board 50x100. Attention: window and door openings are tied with a board around the entire perimeter. Sheets of 12 - mm OSB are fastened with galvanized self-tapping screws 51 - 55 mm long in increments of no more than 25 cm. The joints of the sheets should fall exclusively on the racks. By the way: if you foam the joint before screwing in the screws, the walls will be noticeably warmer. The vapor barrier is laid under the insulation from the side of the outer skin; its second layer closes the insulation from the inside after the mineral wool mats are installed spaced between the posts. From the inside, they are sewn up later, in the process of interior decoration. On the construction of walls, the construction of a garden house with our own hands does not end: we have to build a roof.
Foundation
Unburied
buried
Geoscrews
Video: installation of a frame house
What house to build?
When not to excess
Chalet
How to build a chalet
Bungalow and… bungalow
Bungalow like bungalow
Bungalow as technology
Skeletons
Video: country house 4 × 6 using frame technology
Video: do-it-yourself mini-frame house
In conclusion about the roof
Design choice
However, when using them, the costs that the construction or rebuilding of a garden house will result in will increase markedly.
Foundation
Strength grade
Cement M400, kg
Crushed stone, kg
Sand, kg
Water, l
M100
210
1080
870
210
M150
235
1080
855
210
M200
286
1080
795
210
M250
332
1080
750
215
M300
282
1080
705
220
The columns are displayed in the horizon due to the thickness of the seams.
From above, each column is waterproofed with two layers of roofing material.Floor
Grillage
lags
Warming
Walls
frame
sheathing
Warming
Roof and attic
