How is waterproofing done? Waterproofing measures to protect the foundation

The strength and durability of the foundation directly depend on the stability, integrity of the structures of the entire erected on this basis of the building, and even, to a certain extent, the safety of the people living in it. That is why special attention is always riveted to the process of constructing the foundation part of the structure, and only the best building materials are used for this.

However, no matter what high-strength materials neither used on the "zero cycle", they all have a common ruthless "enemy" - water, in one state or another. Moisture can reduce the strength of the structure being created in a relatively short time, so do-it-yourself waterproofing is the most important stage in the independent construction of your own house, which should never be overlooked.

What is dangerous moisture for the foundation

Water familiar to all of us, completely seemingly harmless to an amateurish look, can cause a lot of trouble to the foundation of a building:

Firstly, the property of water is known to increase significantly in volume when it passes into a solid state - when it freezes. Penetrating into micropores and cracks of even the most durable structure when temperatures drop below 0º C, it is able to expand them, increase in size, and sometimes literally break them into separate fragments.

Secondly, water on the surface of the earth, contained in the upper layers of the soil and even dropdown in the form of precipitation is never pure. It is always saturated in one or another concentration with very aggressive chemical compounds - industrial emissions, agricultural chemicals, oil waste, automobile exhaust, etc. Such substances cause surface erosion of concrete, from which it loses its strength and begins to crumble.

Thirdly, these same chemical compounds plus dissolved in water, oxygen activates corrosion processes on the reinforcement grid. Not only does the inherent strength of the entire reinforced structure decrease, but this leads to the formation of internal cavities in the thickness of the material and eventually ends with delamination of the upper layers of concrete.
And fourthly, we must not forget that what water has a pronounced leaching property (how not to remember the proverb - « water wears away the stone). Constant exposure to even chemical pure water always associated with a gradual washing away from the surface of the particles of the foundation material, the formation of surface shells, cavities, etc.

Water in the soil adjacent to the foundation can be in different layers and in different states:

The upper, so-called, filtration layer is water falling out with precipitation, formed from melting snow or simply from an external spill (usage water for domestic and agricultural purposes, accidental gusts of highways, etc.). Sometimes, if a high-lying waterproof layer comes across on the path of absorption, then a fairly stable horizon - perched water - can form in a certain limited area.

The saturation of the upper filtration layer of water is always strongly dependent on the time of year, the steady weather, the amount of precipitation and is not a constant value. An important role in reducing the impact of moisture from this layer on the foundation of the building will be played, in addition to high-quality waterproofing, by a well-thought-out storm sewer system.

The upper layers of the soil always contain soil ( ground) moisture, which is constantly retained there due to capillarity or adhesive properties of the soil. Its concentration is quite constant and depends very little on the level of precipitation, season and etc.. It does not exert any dynamic, washing out loads on the foundation, and its negative impact is limited to capillary penetration into materials and chemical "aggression".

To counteract ground moisture, a waterproof layer of waterproofing is sufficient. True, in excessively wet areas of the area, with a tendency to waterlogging, it will be necessary to provide a drainage system for water drainage.

Underground groundwater - upper aquifers characteristic of a particular area and its relief. The depth of their occurrence depends on the location of the water-resistant layers of the soil, and the seasonal factors strongly influence the occupancy - heavy snowmelt, prolonged rains, or, conversely, an established drought.

Elegantly, the depth of these aquifers and its seasonal fluctuations can be observed in the nearest well - a conventional or technological drainage one. In addition to direct penetration into the thickness of the foundation material, these waters can also exert hydrostatic pressure on the buried part of the structure. With a high occurrence of such layers, the maximum amount of waterproofing work will be required with the mandatory installation of an effective drainage sewerage around the building.

What types of waterproofing are used to protect the foundation

In order to prevent the negative impact of moisture on the foundation, the following types of waterproofing and other construction and installation works are used:

Giving structural materials of additional water-repellent properties.
Creation waterproof coatings on the vertical walls of the foundation, from its sole to the upper edge of the base.
Reliable waterproofing of horizontal interlevel seams, preventing capillary penetration of moisture upwards.
Reliable protection of the waterproofing itself from external mechanical influences.
Measures to reduce negative impact negative temperatures.
The device of the drainage system around the house.
Creation of a reliable system for the removal of rain and melt water - a drain and storm sewer.
Ensuring reliable ventilation of basements and basements.

In the proposed figure, as an example, a possible general scheme for waterproofing the foundation of a building is shown:

On the diagram, the numbers are marked:

1 - the sole of the foundation, which usually rests on a compacted sand and gravel cushion. Between it and the vertical wall of the foundation (2) there must be a cut-off horizontal waterproofing (4), which overlaps with an insulating layer arranged in basement floor space (4) between the base and the screed.

The outer vertical wall has a coated waterproofing coating (5), additionally protected by a waterproof membrane (7) and covered with a layer of geotextile (8), which protects against abrasive and other mechanical impact.

The upper edge of the basement (foundation wall) is also necessarily covered with waterproofing roll material (6), on top of which further construction of the walls and ceilings of the building will be carried out.

To remove moisture, a drainage system is provided - pipes (9) laid along the perimeter at the level of the base of the foundation in a gravel cage. For more reliable protection from the ingress of water from atmospheric precipitation into the depths of the soil, it is advisable to arrange a clay castle around the house (10).

In areas with a harsh climate, severe freezing of the upper layers of the soil, or in the case when it is planned to place residential or utility premises in the basement or basement, the foundation and basement waterproofing system is supplemented by their insulation system:

Scheme in in general terms repeats the one posted above, so the main numbering of parts and assemblies is preserved. In addition, it shows:

1.1 - sand and gravel pad under the footing of the foundation. This layer can also be made of lean concrete with large fractional filling.

12 - insulating panels made of extruded polystyrene foam, installed outside on top of rolled waterproofing along the entire height of the foundation and basement walls.

13 - plaster layer of the basement finish. Currently, instead of it, special basement thermal panels are often used - they provide both insulation and reliable cover from direct exposure to water.

14 - the wall of the building being erected. The figure clearly shows that it begins to fit necessarily from the layer of horizontal cut-off waterproofing of the foundation.

The choice of a specific type of waterproofing, and hence the materials used for it, largely depends on the specific purpose of the premises located in the basement. Existing classification(according to European standards BS 8102) divides them into four classes:

The first, lower class is utility or technical premises that are not equipped with electrical networks. Wet spots or even small leaks are allowed in them. The wall thickness must be at least 150 mm.
The second class also includes technical or utility rooms, but already equipped with ventilation, in which only wet evaporation is allowed, without the formation of damp spots, with a wall thickness of at least 200 mm. It is already allowed to install electrical appliances of standard mains voltage here.
Third grade is the most common, and most of all of interest to individual developers. It includes all residential buildings, offices, retail outlets, social facilities. The thickness of the walls should not be lower than 250 mm, a system of natural or forced ventilation. No moisture penetration is allowed.
As a rule, you don’t have to deal with the fourth class of premises when building your own house - these are objects with a specially created microclimate - archival storages, libraries, laboratories and others, where special requirements are imposed on a constant, clearly established level of humidity.

The table below shows the recommended types of waterproofing and the materials used for its installation, indicating its degree of strength, the protection created from one or another impact of groundwater and compatibility with the classes of equipped premises:

Type of waterproofing and materials used	crack resistance	degree of protection against water			room class
		perch	soil moisture	ground aquifer	1	2	3	4
Modern adhesive waterproofing with the use of bituminous membranes based on polyester	high	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	No
Waterproofing installed using polymer waterproof membranes	high	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Coating waterproofing using polymer or bitumen-polymer mastics	average	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	No
Flexible coating waterproofing using polymer-cement compositions	average	Yes	No	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	No
Rigid coating waterproofing based on cement compositions	low	Yes	not	Yes	Yes	Yes	No	No
Impregnating waterproofing that increases the water repellency of concrete	low	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	No

After viewing the table, one can make a very erroneous conclusion that, for example, for a residential building, only one type of insulation will be enough. Practice shows that this may clearly not be enough, and most often an integrated approach is used, when one type, combined with another, creates a truly reliable waterproof barrier for the foundation.

Horizontal foundation waterproofing

It is advisable to start the review with horizontal waterproofing. The fact is that it can be carried out exclusively in the process of building a building. If the vertical can be carried out even on a fully constructed building, for example, after the acquisition finished house, then it is almost impossible to draw a horizontal line that has been overlooked - it is always planned in advance. True, there are modern methods of injection waterproofing, but they are very expensive and still remain only a half measure aimed at minimizing previously made miscalculations.

The first kind of waterproofing level is a compacted sand and gravel pad under the foundation soles being laid or under the poured monolithic structure.
If it is planned to pour a concrete tie in the basement or basement, then its first layer is also carried out according to such a backfill, so that the level is equal in height to the upper edge of the laid soles or the first layer of the “tape”. Made from lean concrete. This is where the first layer of horizontal waterproofing is laid - the room is completely covered from below from the penetration of soil water. In addition, a barrier is created from the capillary rise of moisture along the walls of the future foundation.

Waterproofing is carried out - with roofing material, the adjacent sheets of which are laid with overlaps of 100 - 150 mm with their obligatory "boiling" with a gas burner. If the layers of roofing material laid on the floor and on the platforms for further pouring of the foundation tape are combined, then the overlaps are increased to 250 — 300 mm.
It is recommended to spare no expense and perform such insulation even in two layers. In this case, the stripes of the second layer should be oriented perpendicular to the first.

The second "line of defense" from the capillary spread of moisture should be organized at the transition point monolithic foundation(after pouring it) into the basement, if it is provided for by the project. The importance of this waterproofing layer is clearly demonstrated in the diagram below:

The location of the "boundaries" of the cut-off horizontal waterproofing

For such waterproofing, the same roofing material is used, laid on a completely frozen and hardened concrete base, cleaned of dirt and dust and carefully primed tar mastic. The material is laid in at least two layers by gluing them together with mastic or by thermal method (welding).

If the project does not provide for a separate base, and the protruding above-ground part of the monolithic foundation will play its role, then this step is understandably skipped. But in any case, exactly the same actions are taken on the upper edge of the foundation or basement, regardless of whether floor slabs are laid on this basis or walls are erected from any material.

Sometimes work on waterproofing the top horizontal plane foundation is combined with similar operations on vertical walls, thereby obtaining one monolithic surface of the insulator.

Vertical waterproofing of foundation walls and plinth

Vertical waterproofing of the foundation walls is a prerequisite for long-term trouble-free operation of the building. When building a new house, it is thought out in advance. It is also carried out on houses that have been built for a long time - with clear signs that the old waterproofing clearly does not cope with its functions - there are pronounced traces of moisture penetration into the premises, or if when buying a house there is no certainty that such work was carried out earlier.

Spots like these are a clear warning sign

To carry out such waterproofing work, it will be necessary to expose the walls of the foundation to the maximum possible depth - up to its sole. During construction, this factor is usually taken into account immediately, leaving the necessary trench around the perimeter - it will be required both for waterproofing and for installing a drainage system.
On the old building, you will have to start with earthworks. First, the concrete pavement around the base is dismantled - using a perforator or manually. Then they dig a trench, deepening to the bottom of the foundation. The width of the trench can be any - the main thing is that it allows you to freely perform all the necessary actions. Usually a width of up to 1 meter is sufficient.
The walls are carefully cleaned from the remnants of the soil, their revision is carried out.
All loose places, delaminations, unstable areas must be unconditionally removed. The surface must be cleaned to a monolithic structure.
If a layer of waterproofing is applied to the walls, but its functionality is doubtful, then it is also better to completely remove it.

Repair of the wall surface and their impregnating (penetrating) waterproofing

All cracks and cracks on the surface are cut into rectangular grooves 25 × 25 mm in size along the entire length. Similar operations are carried out in places of vertical and horizontal joints of reinforced concrete blocks with the removal of the old solution. If the foundation is block or made of bricks, the seams are cleaned to the same depth - up to 25 mm.

As a repair composition, we can recommend a specialized waterproofing dry building mix "Penecrete", which is used in combination with a deep penetration primer "Penetron".

- "Penecrete" has a good plasticity, high adhesion to almost all building materials, and after complete solidification becomes reliable waterproofing, firmly "sealing" the seams and cracks. It is important that after filling the seams the material does not shrink.

- Penetron or other primers of similar action penetrate deep into the thickness of concrete, forming additional crystalline bonds there, which significantly strengthens the material, and firmly closing the pores, preventing capillary penetration of moisture.

The advantage of these materials is that they are applied to a wet surface, thereby reducing the time of work - during construction there is no need to wait for the concrete to dry completely.

Penekrit is prepared in the usual way - like any dry mortar, using a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle, in strict accordance with the instructions attached to it. Penetron is sold in a ready-to-use form.

So, all cut cracks, joints and seams are first moistened with ordinary water, and then primed"penetron".
Then, as tightly as possible, without leaving air "pockets", they are filled with a repair compound - "penecrite" to the general level of the wall.
After setting of the repair mortar the entire surface the outer wall of the foundation must be moistened (you can use a hose with a spray nozzle) and covered in two layers with the same deep penetration primer.
If possible, then then The same operations are carried out on internal walls foundation.

The created system of protection against moisture penetration is quite effective. There is even an opinion that she alone can cope with the tasks of waterproofing the foundation, and drawn even on one side of the wall. Nevertheless, it is better to use such an impregnating technology as the main one only from the inside and on the part of the foundation or base protruding above the ground. Outside, it is still worth making sure and protecting the walls in the area of their direct contact with the ground with additional waterproof layers.

Video: the use of penetrating waterproofing system "Penetrat"

Coating vertical waterproofing of the foundation

Coating waterproofing of foundation walls is perhaps the most widespread technology among private developers. It is quite simple to perform - almost everyone can carry it out, does not require excessively high material costs, and does not take much time.

For work you will need:

- Bituminous primer - it can be purchased at the store in finished form (bituminous primers). It is easy to make it yourself - the bitumen heated to a fluid state is mixed with a solvent, which is most often used as gasoline. The weight ratio of gasoline to bitumen should be approximately 1:3 ÷ 1:4. Important - when preparing the primer, bitumen is poured into gasoline, and not vice versa. The composition should have a smooth liquid consistency, similar to ordinary paint.

Foundation waterproofing prices

Foundation waterproofing

Step-by-step instructions for waterproofing the foundation with self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material "Technoelast-Barrier (BO)"

The table below shows an illustrated step-by-step instruction for the implementation of waterproofing works on the foundation using rolled self-adhesive material on a bitumen-polymer basis "Technoelast-Barrier (BO)" of the well-known Russian manufacturer "TechnoNIKOL".

This rolled material (the standard form of release is a roll of 20 × 1 m) is designed for waterproofing concrete slab bases, floors, and plinths, with a depth of up to 3 meters from the ground surface, and the absence of high-lying ground water. The convenience of "Technoelast-Barrier (BO)" is that its use does not require additional equipment, is not associated with "hot" processes, that is, there is no melting stage using a gas burner - work can be carried out even on a combustible base, indoors and limited spaces.

Prices for Technoelast-Barrier

TechnoNIKOL technoelast

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed.
	The material itself is a baseless structure, consisting of the top layer - a dense polymer film with the TechnoNIKOL logo printed on it, and the second layer - a bitumen-polymer viscous composite material with excellent adhesion to prepared substrates. Prior to installation of the material, this adhesive layer is covered with a special protective film substrate, which is removed immediately before laying.
	The adhesive bitumen-polymer layer does not need to be subjected to thermal action - the material is simply glued to the treated surface, and then straightened and rolled using wide brushes, rubber or silicone rollers, hand rollers. Of the other tools, you will need a knife for cutting the material, a tape measure, a ruler, a square - for taking measurements, marking and cutting, a roller and a brush - for pre-priming the surface.
	Let's start with horizontal waterproofing. As already mentioned in the article, this can be, for example, slab foundation or the floor in the basement or basement. First of all, you need to make sure once again that there are no gross defects on the surface - potholes, cracks, sagging of the solidified solution and other serious flaws. All this must be eliminated - removed or repaired, achieving a flat surface, otherwise the selected waterproofing method may become ineffective. The rolled material must adhere tightly to the surface over its entire area.
	It is easy to check the evenness of the surface for waterproofing by attaching a long rule to it.
	Perfect evenness is not required - it is quite enough if the differences on a two-meter section are no more than 5 millimeters.
	In order for the primer to lay well and evenly on the surface, it must be cleaned of small debris and dust. To do this, she carefully swept ...
	… and ideally, it is best to clean it and completely dedust it with a powerful construction vacuum cleaner.
	The next step is the application of a primer, that is, a special bituminous composition - a primer. However, there are certain restrictions on the use of different primers - depending on the moisture level of the concrete surface. Residual moisture is measured using a special device - a moisture meter. It is clear that not everyone has such a device. You can get by with a simpler solution - put on a fully ripened concrete surface polyethylene film measuring 1000 × 1000 mm, gluing it around the perimeter with adhesive tape. If after a day there are no drops of condensate on the film, then the concrete can be considered dry, with a residual moisture content of less than 4% by weight.
	Under such conditions, primers "TechnoNIKOL" No. 01 and No. 03 on an organic basis can be used.
	If the residual moisture content of concrete exceeds 4%, then you can use the water-soluble primer "TechnoNIKOL" No. 04. But even at the same time, the humidity cannot be more than 8%, that is, the concrete must fully gain strength and mature. On the ground that has not been sustained for the entire period set for maturation, it makes no sense to carry out any waterproofing work.
	The primer is thickly, not particularly stinting, distributed over the surface with a roller. Normal consumption is 300÷350 ml per square meter area.
	It is necessary to ensure that the distribution of the primer over the surface is uniform, without "bald spots". In hard-to-reach places, especially along the line of intersections of vertical and horizontal surfaces, one cannot do without the use of a brush.
	It is recommended, after applying the primer, not to make a long pause before laying the main waterproofing material. The only thing you need to wait for is the complete drying of the applied soil. It is not difficult to check this - an ordinary paper napkin is pressed against the treated surface, which already seems to be dried out. If black marks remain on it, it is too early to proceed to further operations.
	But if the napkin remains clean after such an “experiment”, we can assume that the concrete surface is ready for basic waterproofing work
	A roll of waterproofing was delivered to the place of work. On a horizontal surface, you can mark a line along which the first strip of material will be laid.
	The outer packaging of the roll is opened and removed as unnecessary.
	In the next step, the roll of "Technoelast-Barrier (BO)" is rolled out along the entire length of the area to be waterproofed. At the same time, it is necessary to adjust its position, so that the spread sheet lies exactly along the intended line. Naturally, the rolling is carried out in such a way that the polymer layer with the logo is at the top, and the protective film substrate is at the bottom.
	After rolling, the sheet is cut in place. It is best to do this on a ruler, wielding a sharp construction knife.
	After trimming, the canvas spread along the entire length must be carefully, without shifting its position, rolled up from both sides to the center. It is more convenient, of course, to perform this and all further operations together, together with an assistant.
	In order to prevent distortions in the direction and creases of the waterproofing material itself during rolling, it is recommended to use old cardboard sleeves as coils for these purposes.
	Now the final laying of the material begins. To begin with, it is necessary to cut the film substrate of the material along the transverse line along the entire width of the roll. This must be done carefully, without pressing on the knife, so as not to accidentally cut through the canvas.
	After that, along the incision made, the substrate is separated by a narrow strip from the adhesive surface of the waterproofing, also along the entire width of the roll.
	Now, gradually stretching the film-substrate, the roll is finally laid from the center in one direction. The adhesive bitumen-polymer layer comes into adhesive contact with the concrete surface coated with the bitumen primer.
	It is more expedient to perform the work together: one worker, pulling out the film substrate, gradually unfolds the roll. The second, without delay, immediately smoothes the laid canvas, expelling possible air bubbles from under it. The most convenient way to do this is to use a wide brush with a long handle, as shown in the illustration. Then the same operation is repeated on the other side of the center. As a result - the first sheet is laid. For central regions a glued-on cloth pressing with a brush (with a well-prepared concrete surface) is enough. But the edges, in a strip of about 150 mm on each side, it is also desirable to roll with a heavy metal or rubber roller.
	When gluing the next canvas, which lies parallel to the first, the following rule is observed - the overlap must be at least 100 millimeters. The overlap strip is rolled by a roller to ensure complete sealing of the sheet joint.
	Of course, when laying waterproofing, they try to use whole sheets along the entire length. But sooner or later a situation arises when you have to join two strips along the end edge. There are also certain rules here.
	Even at the stage of “trying on” the next canvas, the necessary margin for overlap is immediately laid.
	The minimum width of the overlap strip should be 150 millimeters.
	But that's not all. If a T-shaped joint is obtained, that is, two sheets laid and connected along the end side are simultaneously overlapped along their long side with the previously laid sheet, it is recommended to perform one more operation. On the canvas that turns out to be in the middle (that is, it lies with the edge on the previously laid sheet, and then overlaps along the end with the next one), it is necessary to cut off the corner.
	The dimensions of the legs of this removed triangle correspond to the above parameters of overlapping of the sheets along the length and along the end. A rigid lining is substituted under the edge of the sheet, and the corner is cut off with a knife.
	After that, the final “assembly” of this connecting unit is carried out, which is then necessarily rolled with a heavy roller for reliable sealing. The cut of the middle sheet in the connection is “packed” between the top and bottom sheets, so that the tightness is fully ensured.
	If similar T-shaped connecting nodes come across on adjacent lanes, then the distance between them must be at least 500 millimeters. By the way, in this illustration, the very cut corner is clearly visible, covered with the upper canvas and rolled with a skating rink (shown by a red arrow).
	In the same order, work continues further until the entire horizontal surface requiring waterproofing is covered. The waterproofing layer itself also needs protection. If it is not supposed to be backfilled with soil (for example, this is the floor of the basement or basement floor or monolithic slab foundation), then a reinforced concrete screed (the so-called screed without connection to the base, on a separating layer) with a thickness of at least 50 millimeters is necessarily arranged on such waterproofing.
	Now we turn to the vertical waterproofing of the foundation. This is usually a more complex operation, since the surface often has many plane intersections both vertically and horizontally. The work is always carried out in sections from the bottom up, that is, the upper sheets overlap the lower ones, giving a free drain for moisture (the sequence and direction are schematically shown in the illustration). But before that, it is necessary to whole line preliminary operations - surface preparation, formation of transitional fillets, priming and creation of a reinforcement belt. About everything - in order.
	Begin again with checking the condition of the waterproofed surface. There should be no high influxes, bumps, dips, cracks and crevices, that is, everything that can interfere with the snug fit of the Technoelast-Barrier (BO) sheets over their entire area, without leaving air voids.
	The requirements for level differences are the same as on a horizontal surface, that is, within 5 millimeters in a two-meter section.
	With vertical waterproofing of the foundation, sharp fractures from top to bottom, that is, pronounced horizontal internal angles, which can become an area of moisture accumulation, are completely unacceptable. That is, along the line of intersection of the vertical and horizontal planes, it is necessary to take measures to straighten the fracture as much as possible. This is done by laying out the so-called transitional fillets. The section and dimensions of such a fillet in cross section (at least 100 millimeters for each of the legs) are shown in the illustration.
	For laying fillets, you can use a conventional cement-sand mortar, for example, in a ratio of 1: 3. But at the same time, you will have to wait for the complete solidification of the concrete “in full”, that is, within 4 weeks. So it is better to lay out the fillets immediately after removing the formwork from the foundation slab and discarding the soil from it. The best solution would be to use a special polymer-cement-based building mixture designed specifically for waterproofing work - it will create a reliable barrier against moisture in this vulnerable spot, and it hardens and gains strength very quickly. The composition is diluted and kneaded in accordance with the instructions attached to it.
	The dry mixture is poured into the required measured volume of water and mixed until fully prepared - obtaining a homogeneous plastic consistency.
	Then, using a conventional spatula, fillets are formed, adhering to the dimensions indicated above.
	The laid out fillets are left until completely dry and cured.
	In this illustration, it is well demonstrated that the fillets are laid out at all internal corners of the transition from the vertical to the horizontal plane. After the complete readiness of the fillets, they proceed to the next stage of work.
	The next step - the entire surface for waterproofing is densely covered with a primer. On large areas it will be more convenient to work with a roller.
	But all complex areas of the surface - external and internal corners and fillets, are necessarily smeared with a brush, so that there is not the slightest gap untreated with a primer. They proceed to subsequent operations after the primer has completely dried - how to check this has already been described above.
	This is followed by the most important stage - the creation of the so-called reinforcement belt. Its essence lies in the fact that without exception, all “problem” areas are initially pasted over with strips of material, and only then, on top of the reinforcement, will the installation of the main waterproofing layer be carried out. As already mentioned, the work is carried out from the bottom up. It often happens that work starts from an already waterproofed horizontal base. Another option - the lower part of the structure is a concrete preparation of the foundation. It will have to be pasted over with material over its entire width, while adhering to the rules that apply on horizontal surfaces (see above). The illustration, just as an example, shows a horizontal waterproofing belt 300 mm wide - it is understood that the surface of the concrete preparation of the foundation has been pasted over. In the event that such a structural element is not provided (the tape was poured directly on the sand and gravel cushion), then the task is simplified. In our example, probably the most complex option is shown, with two fractures of the waterproofed surface at different levels.
	When creating reinforcement on any of the fillets, a web of such a width is cut out so that both above, on the vertical plane, and below, on the horizontal, there is a strip with a width of at least 100 mm.
	As a rule, all elements are cut and tried on by hand, directly at the place of future installation. After fitting, the fragment is immediately glued to the specified area.
	The scheme of actions is simple: the protective substrate is removed sequentially from the cut-out fragment, as it is glued. Any glued element of the reinforcement belt is immediately rolled with a rubber or silicone roller.
	Further, the illustrations show some methods for gluing waterproofing on various parts of the reinforcement belt. The strip is glued to the outer vertical corner. The same rule is observed - when moving to different planes, the minimum strip width on each of them should be 100 mm.
	"Sole" of the outer corner.
	The inner vertical corner is pasted over. Naturally, work on creating reinforcement from below should already be completed.
	The upper protruding part of the strip, covering the inner corner, is cut in two, and the "petals" are parted to the sides.
	The gap remaining between them is sealed from above with a small square fragment of waterproofing.
	Observing the basic rules, all “problem” areas are pasted with waterproofing. Of course, a certain ingenuity will be required, making decisions applicable to the specific conditions of the work. In this example, the finished reinforcement belt looks like this.
	After that, they proceed to the sticker of the main layer of waterproofing. It is recommended to follow the rule - no glued canvas should have more than one change of direction, otherwise it may be deformed with the appearance of voids. The work is carried out according to the same principle - from the lower sections to the upper ones: they try on, cut, and then - the final gluing of the fragment. The overlap on the end part of any fragments should be, as with horizontal waterproofing, at least 150 mm, on the side - 100 mm.
	With all this, the lines of vertical joints at adjacent levels must be spaced at a distance of at least 300 mm.
	The illustrations below will show examples of gluing the main waterproofing. The sheet is fitted and cut to close the horizontal “step” and the foundation slab located below the vertical wall.
	In contrast to the technology of gluing waterproofing by fusing, in this case, each of the canvases will be attached after trying on from top to bottom. In the upper part, the protective substrate is removed, and the canvas is fixed on the surface.
	For reliable fixation, the upper part can be immediately rolled with a roller.
	Then, carefully sequentially removing the protective film, the rest of the cut fragment is pasted.
	They go to the next section of the same level - and continue in the same sequence.
	In areas of a large overlap of sheets at the bottom at the inner corners, the top sheet is trimmed diagonally, as shown in the illustration.
	Then this assembly is sized, followed by roller rolling.
	After the completion of work at this level, they move higher - to a vertical straight section of the foundation tape. Waterproofing is carried out in compliance with all the same rules and technological methods.
	The glued sheets of waterproofing must be fixed along the upper edge. For this, an aluminum fixing profile is used, which is attached to the foundation strip with dowels through the holes on it. There is a bend on the profile - it should be located on top in the direction from the wall.
	The profile is tried on, cut to the desired size, then holes are drilled in the wall, dowels are hammered and screwed in. Two dowels are placed along the edges of the profile, that is, in the first two holes in a row. Further installation goes in increments through one hole.
	If it is necessary to join two profiles, then a compensation gap of the order of 8 ÷ 10 mm must be left between them.
	After all the planks along the perimeter of the foundation are fixed, the gap between the bent edge and the profile wall is tightly filled with a polyurethane sealant using a construction syringe.
	The result is a completely waterproof surface strip foundation looks like this. However, it must be protected from mechanical damage during backfilling.
	Extruded polystyrene foam boards can be used for this. It is rigid and strong enough to withstand mechanical stress, and the foundation tape, among other things, also receives good insulation.
	Another option, when insulation is not required, is the use of a special profiled membrane "PLANTER - standard". It is distinguished by high strength, elasticity, and embossed "bosses" provide the necessary damping effect when backfilling the soil.
	This membrane is attached to the vertical surface of the foundation strip just before backfilling the excavation. At the same time, its relief protrusions should be turned towards the waterproofed surface. On this, the work on waterproofing the strip foundation can be considered completed.

There are other ways to waterproof the walls of the foundation - cement-polymer plasters or coating compositions, solid polymer membranes, bentonite mats, similar in principle to the "clay castle", fusing. However, in the conditions of individual construction, those mentioned in the publication are more often used.

Video: foundation waterproofing by fusing roll materials

And the last thing - the waterproofing of the foundation will be effective only in those conditions when thoughtful storm and melt water is provided - drains from the roof, low tides on the basement, ground or underground storm water inlets and drainage channels, etc. If water has direct access under the walls of the building, then sooner or later it will “do its job” and the reliability of the waterproofing of the foundation will be compromised.

Waterproofing the floor in the bathroom, materials for which a large assortment can be found today in any hardware store, is a mandatory procedure before starting finishing works and installation of plumbing.

The bathroom is the wettest room in both a private house and an apartment, therefore, no matter what material they are made of, they need high-quality waterproofing, otherwise leaks may occur at the junctions of walls and floors during the operation of the room, at the points where engineering communications pass through the floors . Not only that, there is a great risk of flooding the premises located below. As you know, moisture, getting into a closed space, inevitably contributes to the formation of mold and fungus, which begin to gradually destroy the structure of the floor and walls, lead to a persistent unpleasant smell of dampness, and can cause a number of diseases in people living in an apartment.

The main types of waterproofing floors

There are many varieties of waterproofing materials made on various bases and in various forms. To choose the most suitable option, you should consider in advance their characteristics and the technology of working with them.

So, according to the type of application, waterproofing is divided into the following types:

Coating.
Okleyechnaya.
Impregnation.
Cast.
Plaster.

It is difficult to say which of these waterproofings is better for the bathroom floor, since even among experts there is no consensus on this matter. The choice of material and technology of its laying is made taking into account the characteristics of the surface, which should be waterproofed and the allotted time to complete the work.

Coating type waterproofing

Compositions for coating (painting) waterproofing - the easiest to use

Coating compositions for waterproofing are produced on different bases and can be:

Water-based, acrylic-based;
Bituminous rubber;
Bitumen-polymer;
Cement-polymer;
polyurethane;

Bitumen-based formulations are produced with additives from various fillers and organic solvents. Fillers make mastics more elastic, since they are used as plasticizers, crumb rubber or latex.

Mastics have excellent adhesion and can be applied to both concrete and wood surfaces.

It should be noted that bitumen-based materials have a number of disadvantages, which include:

- possible cracking and chipping as a result of temperature fluctuations;

— biological corrosion;

- an unpleasant smell during the waterproofing work.

But, in spite of these shortcomings of coating compositions, they are most often used to isolate the floor in the bathroom, as this is the most affordable way to create protection against moisture penetration.

The cost of coating waterproofing mastics is quite affordable, but its service life is no more than five to six years.

Materials made on the basis of polymers have practically no negative qualities, therefore they can be used without fear.

The advantages of coating compositions include the ease of applying the material to the floor surface and the lower part of the walls, as well as to the corners and joints with a conventional brush.

Material consumption depends on the initial quality waterproofed surface and number of layers. Usually the recommended amount per 1 m² area is indicated by the manufacturer of the composition.

How is coating (painting) waterproofing applied?

There is nothing complicated in the device of this type of waterproofing - the main thing is to do all the work carefully and adhere to the developed technology.

If the coating composition is purchased in dry form, then the technology for its manufacture can be found on the packaging. The mixture must necessarily have a homogeneous state. If a liquid component is included in the dry composition, then it is first mixed with water and only after that it is poured into the dry mass and mixed into a pasty mastic. Such waterproofing is called two-component. When the mixture is ready, you need to immediately proceed to work.

The first thing to do before applying any coating is to thoroughly clean the surface of fine dust and larger debris. The work is carried out with a vacuum cleaner.

Further, it is necessary to remove absorbed greasy stains or paint residues from the surfaces, if there are any, clean them to “healthy” concrete. The same is done with loose areas where erosion of the concrete slab is noticeable. After cleaning, dust and debris are again cleaned.
The next step is the application (deep penetration composition). The primer can be poured onto floors and spread with a roller.

Corners and surfaces around the outlet of pipes in the wall and drain in the floor must be treated with a primer composition using a brush so as not to leave untreated areas. After the first layer of the solution dries, another one is applied.

Next, you can proceed to the application of the waterproofing composition. Work begins with mastic covering the corners and all joints of the floor and wall, pipe passages through the ceilings.
On the freshly applied sealing tape is laid on the mastic. It is glued with an uncured composition to the walls and floor, so that the joint between them is completely closed, which is always a weak point in case of leaks. A prerequisite is that the tape must be completely straightened, not have waves, kinks, folds, voids under it are unacceptable.

When joining the strips, the overlap must be at least 50 ÷ 70 mm (during the initial laying, the overlap must be smeared with mastic.).

In the bathroom, not only the joints of the floor and walls are processed in the same way, but the corners of the walls, to a height of at least 150 ÷ 200 mm.

Another layer of waterproofing mastic is applied over the tape.

Next, it is necessary to stick sealing membranes around the points of water supply and drainage, that is, branch pipes or sleeves emerging from walls and floors with communications laid through them.

Particular attention - waterproofing near pipes, holes, sleeves in the ceiling, etc.

Then the entire remaining surface of the bathroom floor and walls is covered with waterproofing mastic to a height of 150 ÷ 200 mm.

By the way, qualified craftsmen recommend not to spare the material and apply the composition at least 500 ÷ 700 mm from the floor, especially around the bathtub and washbasin - this will protect the walls from from dampness and mold growth.

Do not spare the material and at the same time insulate the walls near the bathroom and sink

Mastic, when applied to the floor surface, does not smear thinly - it should lay down in a thick uniform layer of the same thickness, about 2 mm.

Waterproofing is carried out, if necessary, in two or even three layers. Education not allowed uncovered mastic"islands". Each of the layers is applied in a perpendicular direction relative to the previous, already dried layer, about five to six hours later.
When the work on waterproofing the floor is completed, you can start finishing only after a day.

At the end of the section - an example of the implementation of coating waterproofing in the bathroom.

Prices for coating waterproofing

Coating waterproofing

Video: bathroom waterproofing master work

Plaster waterproofing

Plaster waterproofing also belongs to the coating type, but it must be distinguished separately, since materials that differ from the rest in their composition are used for work.

Plaster mixtures include components such as gypsum, cement and polymers. If the bitumen used for waterproofing the floor, at a temperature of 0 degrees, begins to lose its elasticity, becomes brittle, and cracks can form on it, then temperature drops are not terrible for plaster compositions.

There are many plaster waterproofing mixtures of various manufacturers on sale. Particularly popular are the compositions of the Knauf and Ceresit companies.

For example, the KNAUF FLACHENDICHT waterproofing composition includes a component such as synthesized latex, which gives the material a special elasticity. Therefore, the layer applied to the surface, after polymerization, retains its qualities at temperatures from - 18 to + 55 ° С.

This composition after kneading does not require heating, and is applied to the surface immediately.

Another option for high-quality plaster waterproofing is a mixture of the Ceresit CR -65 brand, which has excellent adhesion to surfaces, provided that it is applied to a surface treated with a primer.

One of the most popular compositions is Hydroizol Ceresit CR-65

Plaster mixtures are also applied with a brush or roller. The joints of the planes must be glued with sealing tape. It is advisable to choose all materials from one manufacturer - they are fully adapted to each other.

Prices for plaster waterproofing

Plaster waterproofing

Gluing waterproofing

This method of protecting floors from moisture penetration can be called the most effective, but it will be somewhat more difficult to properly lay materials than with coating compositions. The most popular materials for gluing waterproofing: roofing material, isoplast, ecoflex, iselast, mostoplast, technonikol, hydroisol.

The materials are not affected by temperature changes, and if they are installed correctly, according to existing technologies, they will protect the floor surface for many years.

Waterproofing is made in the form of sheets or rolls of waterproof material with good elasticity. But, despite this, it is not easy to lay them on their own in difficult places, for example, in the corners of a room.

Two types of pasting materials are made. One of them is placed on on the worn adhesive, others are self-adhesive.

For installation of the first type, bituminous mastic is most often used as an adhesive base. On self-adhesive sheets, in principle, the same mastic is applied to the back surface and protected by a special film, which is removed only during installation.

by the most widespread until recently, the type of pasting waterproofing was an ordinary roofing material, but with the advent of more advanced materials, it is used less and less. Modern types can have a polymer or bitumen base, so they differ somewhat in their characteristics.

Polymeric material is films and membranes made from vulcanized rubber. Most often they are already covered with an adhesive composition.

They are favorably distinguished by:

- small thickness;

— long service life;

- excellent mechanical strength;

- no shrinkage;

- resistance to vibration.

Bitumen-based waterproofing is used much more often, as it is more affordable. Such materials, for example, include waterproofing, made on the basis of fiberglass impregnated with bitumen, and the plasticizer makes it resistant to cracking and gives it flexibility. This material is not subject to biodegradation and the occurrence of mold on it.

It can be produced in one- and two-sided version.

Double sided material suitable for multi-layer coating

The double-sided material differs from the single-sided one by the presence of a polymer protective film on both sides - it melts when exposed to high temperatures when laying. This material is used in the event that a multi-layer waterproofing coating is arranged.

The one-sided material is equipped with a protective coating consisting of mineral chips. - it is usually used for the external coating of a soft roof.

Glue waterproofing is used not only for concrete coatings, but also for wooden flooring, on which it is laid without melting - on bituminous mastic.

Laying adhesive waterproofing

The surface of the bathroom floor before laying the gluing material must be prepared more carefully than when applying coating compositions to it - this nuance must be observed in order to create long-term and reliable floor protection.

The work is carried out in the following order:

Bathroom floors should not have even small protrusions, so they must be removed. If necessary, the surface is leveled with compounds. Then the floor is well dried and cleaned of dust.
Further, the floor surface and the lower part of the walls are covered with primers, which should also dry well.
Then, on the surface of the floor and walls, a layer of mastic with a thickness of about 2 mm is applied to a height of 200 mm. Mastic can be on a rubber or polymer-bitumen basis.
Next comes the waterproofing sticker. The first canvas, which will be found on the wall, is laid with a bend, but is first glued to the floor surface, and then to the wall.

The mastic is heated until softened with a gas burner. The surface is covered with a waterproofing sheet, which is then rolled with a roller.

The next canvas is laid on the already laid waterproofing strip with an overlap of 80 ÷ 100 mm. Then come the third and subsequent strips.

If it is planned to lay the material in two layers, then mastic is applied again on top of the first and waterproofing is laid. The second layer is laid in such a way that the middle of the canvases is at the junctions of the strips of the lower layer, then completely overlaps them.

The installation process of techno-nicol takes place in the same way, but its advantage lies in the fact that the bituminous layer is already present on the material. When laying, it remains only to heat it until the protective polymer film melts and roll it to the surface with a roller. It is very important not to overheat the material, as the waterproofing will become brittle from this, and its service life will be significantly reduced.

Hot laying is not a very good idea, since in small enclosed spaces it is recommended to avoid working with a burner. When heated, the waterproofing material and mastic emit a sharp and persistent odor, which is rather poorly weathered. In addition, working independently with a burner without proper experience is quite dangerous, but if it is already decided to stick waterproofing in this way, then it is better to entrust this process to specialists.

To perform the work yourself, it is better to use self-adhesive canvases that do not require the use of a burner - this installation is also called the “cold” method. For such a coating, the concrete floor must be treated with a primer - a special compound made on a bitumen basis.

Using it, you can create an almost seamless hermetic coating, since the sheets overlapped by 100 mm are tightly glued together. Before fastening them, the protective film is removed from the adhesive layer, and the canvas is immediately pressed against the already laid waterproofing sheet.

When using adhesive material, special attention must be paid to water pipes and water drain holes. For them, holes are cut out in the waterproofing, where rubber seals are inserted. The places of contact are coated with polyurethane or silicone sealant.

Cast waterproofing

Cast waterproofing can also be made from different materials. As the name implies, the installation of these compounds on the surface occurs by spilling them in cold or hot form.

Hot waterproofing

Hot waterproofing can be asphalt-polymer and asphalt. Consumables for it are hot bitumen, asphalt concrete and pitch. This material shows good performance - elasticity, high resistance to bending, strength and reliability.

Materials are poured on the surface, where work was carried out in advance to seal the seams with sealants and mastics.

This type of waterproofing is almost never used for bathrooms in apartments - they are more suitable for the same rooms, equipped in private homes.

Hot waterproofing installation

To properly perform hot waterproofing, you need to proceed in the following order:

The floor surface must be thoroughly cleaned from various contaminants that could remain from the repair work.
The detected cracks, as well as the joints of the planes, are filled with sealing compounds.
After that, the floor must be well dried - infrared heaters, gas burners and other fairly powerful devices are often used for this.
Priming is in progress. For this type of waterproofing, hot bitumen is used as a primer.

After that, the primed working surface around the perimeter is separated by formwork. It is necessary if waterproof only part of the room is needed.
Warmed up waterproofing mass - temperature its heating is indicated on the packaging.
The hot composition is carefully poured onto the surface, evenly distributed over it with a doctor blade and left until completely solidified.
If necessary, several layers of waterproofing are poured, but each subsequent one - only after the previous one has completely dried.

Cold cast waterproofing

Cold types of waterproofing include materials such as "liquid" rubber and "liquid" glass. The technology for working with these compounds is similar, but their components differ significantly.

"Liquid rubber

This waterproofing material is made from bitumen and polymer additives, which make the resulting emulsion more wear-resistant and resistant to external influences.

Liquid rubber packaging

As a fixer for bitumen-polymer mixtures, calcium chloride is used, which reduces the density of the material, which makes it possible to install "liquid rubber" by spraying. The fixing agent is diluted with water in proportions of 1:10 before being added to the emulsion, and then the final composition is mixed.

Prices for liquid rubber Apiflex

Sprayed liquid rubber Apiflex

In order for the coating to be successful, it is necessary to adhere to the technology, prepare the base well for it and perform work at a temperature not lower than + 3 ÷5 °С.

"Liquid" rubber is produced in different consistencies, which allows it to be applied to surfaces in various ways:

The bulk laying method is the most popular, as it does not require special equipment, while the composition fills all the small cracks and creates an even, smooth coating.
Spraying is a more complex method, as it requires special equipment and skills to work with it. With the correct application of waterproofing by spraying, it turns out to be of better quality than when using other methods, since the composition is supplied under pressure and fills not only cracks, but also microscopic pores of the base.
Painting (coating) technology is the most accessible of all three existing ones. The application differs little from the usual coating insulation, which has already been mentioned above. For painting application, waterproofing is produced in the form of a paste or solution.

After processing the floor with “liquid” rubber, a hermetic elastic film should form on the surface, which will reliably protect the floor from moisture.

The table shows the main characteristics of this material:

Material parameters	Indicators
Tensile strength (MPa)	2E-3
Elongation at break (%)	1500
Adhesion strength with concrete surface (MPa)	1
Density (kg/m³)	1000÷1100
Amount of non-volatile substances (%)	57÷65
Curing time of the composition after its application (hours)	24
Maximum water absorption in the first 24 hours, %	0.5
Water permeability at a pressure of 0.01 MPa in 24 hours	No wet spot
The average consumption of the main component in the manufacture of floor covering material is 1 mm, in dry residue kg / m²	1.61

Technical and operational characteristics of different brands may vary slightly. But due to the fact that all the components of the "liquid" rubber are environmentally friendly, they do not emit harmful fumes during operation, they are safe for humans.

The positive qualities of all types of "liquid" rubber can be called:

High degree of adhesion to various surfaces.
Chemical resistance.
Possibility of applying waterproofing on the old cleaned floor.
Formation of a continuous seamless surface.
High elasticity and strength of the material.

A clear example of the high elasticity and strength of "liquid rubber"

Endurance with temperature changes.
The composition is odorless during installation, therefore it is suitable for waterproofing indoors.
Long service life.

How to apply "liquid" rubber

It makes no sense to describe working with a coating type of “liquid rubber” - it is no different from ordinary coating waterproofing. In order not to repeat ourselves, it is worth considering only the technology of spraying and spilling a waterproofing composition.

The first step is to t t Radiation surface preparation. It is carried out in the same way as for any type of waterproofing. The main condition is the evenness of the floor surface, without protruding fragments, and its cleanliness.

Before applying all types of "liquid" rubber, surfaces must also be primed. As a primer, a similar the composition of the polymer-bitumen solution, which will not only create excellent adhesion for the coating, but also enhance its waterproofing properties. The primer is applied with a roller or brush.

The next step, after the soil has completely dried, is the application of the waterproofing material. Spraying "liquid" rubber is carried out using special equipment. Tanks with a bitumen-polymer composition and with fixative - solution calcium chloride. Both components are fed into the sprayer at once, which are mixed and applied to the surface under pressure, forming an elastic membrane with a thickness of 2 ÷ 3 mm. This process is usually entrusted to specialists who have the necessary apparatus and experience with it.

The process of spraying "liquid rubber"

The pouring method consists in pouring the finished material on the floor surface and distributing it with a spiked roller, spatula or doctor blade. Waterproofing is applied not only on the surface of the floor, but also, as in previous cases, on the lower part of the wall and around the pipes of the water pipes.

The approximate consumption of this material per 1 m² is 2.8 ÷ 3 liters. Complete drying of the coating occurs after two days. After this time, you can proceed to further work on the device floor.

"Liquid glass"

Knowing the characteristics and technology of applying various waterproofing materials, it will be easier to choose one that fits in all respects and becomes available for independent work.

The foundation is the most important part of the house, on which the reliability and durability of the building depends. Being an underground element, the foundation is more susceptible to the harmful effects of water and moisture than others. In most cases, the foundation of the house is a monolithic or precast concrete, which is characterized by a porous structure.

Do foundations and walls need to be waterproofed? Undoubtedly. Penetrating deep, water destroys metal elements. Experiencing temperature changes and moving from one state of aggregation to another, water changes in volume. This cannot but have a negative impact on concrete, which is destroyed more and more with each cycle - cracks and voids appear. As a result, the functionality of the foundation is lost.

Therefore, it is very important to ensure that the underlying structure is completely protected from moisture penetration. The question is how to waterproof the foundation. There are many factors affecting the quality of a hydro-barrier - from the nature of the foundation and the type of terrain to the type of insulating material and the readiness of the base to accept it. That is why it is worth using specialized services - only professionals clearly understand how to properly waterproof the foundation. Small errors can lead, at a minimum, to the need for frequent repairs of moisture protection.

What waterproofing to choose for the foundation?

The answer depends on the orientation of the base - horizontal or vertical surface, on the budget and the degree of rationality. Materials to protect the foundation from moisture are divided into:

pasting;
coating;
penetrating.

Pasting insulation

One of the types of roll insulation. Previously, it was widely used for processing the horizon, creating a waterproofing layer under the foundation. As a roll material, roofing material usually acts, which is glued onto a surface treated with hot bitumen. It is recommended to use in combination with penetrating waterproofing, which is described in more detail below.

Coating insulation

Represented by a range of materials, divided into:

bituminous;
polymeric;
cement-polymer.

Like roll, coating is much better used in conjunction with penetrating insulation.

Penetrating insulation

First, let's talk about the cons of other types. This will help to understand the absolute advantages of impregnation. Other materials are relatively good for outer surface treatment. The pressure of the water presses the insulation against the base. The liquid acts on the internal hydroprotection by separation, and this greatly reduces the life of the barrier.

Plus, all materials, except for impregnations, are prone to damage. Even small problems are a reason for groundwater to work to wear out the foundation. Finding damaged areas often requires a lot of work.

What is the right way to waterproof a foundation if the liquid creates so many problems and the materials are so easily damaged? We need an indivisible union of concrete and waterproofing. This is how penetrating insulation works - the mixture migrates deep into concrete structure, filling absolutely all pores and layers, crystallizing in them and creating a reliable barrier to moisture. In the impregnation market, the undisputed leader is the materials of the Penetron family.

The better to do foundation waterproofing - Penetron materials

Understanding the essence of impregnations and related materials will tell you how to waterproof the foundation according to the rules.

Penetron is the main material of the complex. Certainly present as one of the components. Advantages:

penetrates to a depth of at least 30-40 cm; over time, the depth reaches up to 90 cm;
easy to use - applied with a brush;
increases frost resistance at least twice;
increases the strength of concrete up to 15%;
protects reinforcement from corrosion;
resistant to aggressive environments;
characterized by self-healing of microcracks;
vapor permeable;
a huge range of uses (up to nuclear power plants, thermal power plants, etc.);
environmentally friendly, allowed in contact with drinking water.

Still wondering what kind of waterproofing to choose for the foundation? Penetron is characterized by the highest maintainability. Problems are fixed quickly and locally.

Penekrit: the composition is used to seal joints / seams / junctions / cracks in combination with Penetron. It is distinguished by the absence of shrinkage, high strength and water resistance, good adhesion to concrete, stone, brick, metal.

Peneplug and Waterplug - Hydraulic seals that quickly eliminate pressure leaks in structures made of concrete, stone and brick. Fast setting time (depends on temperature and material). Characterized by the ability to expand. Used in conjunction with the two previous species.

Penetron Admix - An additive that is used at the stage of concrete preparation. Increases the performance of the concrete foundation in terms of strength, water resistance and frost resistance. Can be used in combination with Penebar or Penekrit (after setting concrete with additive).

Penebar is a waterproofing bundle designed to seal structural and working seams and communication passages. Increasing several times upon contact with water, Penebar creates pressure and becomes an excellent hydro-barrier.

These are not all the materials of the complex, but those described are the main ones. About how to properly waterproof the foundation with their help, further.

Foundation waterproofing technology

Preparatory work

It is not enough to know how to waterproof a foundation. You need quality training. All surface defects should be identified. Loose concrete, places with bare rubble and / or reinforcement must be dismantled and plastered with a repair mixture of Scrape M500. The fittings are pre-cleaned and primed with an anti-corrosion solution. Defects are not always noticeable, they can be hidden by cement laitance. This milk is removed, for example, with the composition of Himfreza.

In a concrete foundation, especially if it is a block structure, there are a lot of seams. These are the most vulnerable places. The joints are pre-deepened by 20-25 millimeters, cleaned and, washing well moistened. Then we recommend sealing these places with Penekrit.

Cracks and crevices are sealed, again, with Penekrit. The moistened surface is treated with Penetron, in two layers. Possible leaks in concrete are eliminated with the help of Waterplug or Peneplag mixtures. Leaking places are embroidered, at least in width, by 25 mm and deepened by 50 mm. It is recommended to deepen the expansion in the form of a dovetail. In the case of abundant hydrofiltration with a large water inflow, it is necessary to use injection resins such as PenePurFom. But this is already with the help of special devices and equipment.

Very often there are brick inserts in the FBS foundation. What waterproofing to choose for the foundation in this case? In this situation, you should again pay attention to the M500 Skrepa. It is used to plaster a brick over a metal mesh, achieving at the same time a significant increase in strength and a waterproofing effect. Do not forget about Penekrit, which close up the joints, and in this case, along the border of the M500 M500 and the FBesok themselves.

Final treatment with Penetron

This completes the preparation and you can proceed to the final stage. After the used mixtures have set, the surface to be treated must be cleaned and moistened very well. Finally, the Penetron mixture is prepared and the solution is applied in two layers - with a break of 4-6 hours, or as soon as the first layer dries. After completion of work, the foundation, with a frequency of several hours, is moistened for three days. At this stage, we can say that you already understand how to properly waterproof the foundation.

The finished compound must be used within half an hour, so prepare the amount that can be applied during this time, otherwise the composition will turn into stone!

A distinctive feature of the tape type foundation lies in its very name. It is a closed circuit - a "tape" (a reinforced concrete strip laid under bearing walls). Through the use of a strip foundation, the resistance to the forces of heaving soil increases, while the risk of warping or subsidence of the building is minimized.

Strip foundation - photo of a freshly poured structure

It is this foundation that is built on dry or heaving soils. Moreover, the greater the weight of the future structure, the deeper the foundation is laid (sometimes even up to 3 m, depending on the depth of soil freezing and the level of groundwater).

These and other characteristics are regulated by GOST 13580-85 and SNiP 2.02.01.83.

GOST 13580-85. REINFORCED CONCRETE PLATES OF BELT FOUNDATIONS. Specifications. Download file

SNiP 2.02.01-83. FOUNDATIONS OF BUILDINGS AND STRUCTURES. Download file

During construction, special attention is paid to waterproofing, since the strength, quality and durability of the structure will depend on it. In the absence of protection, groundwater and precipitation can significantly damage concrete, and the consequences can be the most dire - from permanent dampness to subsidence and cracking of walls. For this reason, do-it-yourself waterproofing of the strip foundation is one of the most critical stages.

Waterproofed foundation - photo

Below is the average depth of soil freezing in different regions. If your region is not in the table, then you need to focus on the one that is closest to the others.

Regardless of the chosen method of isolation (they will be discussed a little later), a number of technical requirements must be followed in the work.

Be sure to take into account the level of groundwater, because the type of insulation depends on it.
It is also necessary to take into account the conditions for the future operation of the facility (if, for example, a warehouse is being built, then the requirements for waterproofing will be more stringent).
It is also necessary to remember about the possibility of flooding during large floods or precipitation (this applies in particular to loose soil).
The force of "swelling" of the soil during frost also plays an important role (during defrosting / freezing, the structure and volume of water change, which can lead not only to the rise of the soil, but also to the destruction of the foundation).

The main methods of waterproofing

Waterproofing can be of two types - vertical and horizontal. Let's consider each of the options.

Important information! When constructing the foundation, you do not need to save money and abandon the sand "cushion". Sand is needed not only to prevent leakage of concrete, but also to prevent washing out of the structure.

It is carried out even during the construction of the foundation, and additional time (15-17 days) may be required for preparatory measures. The main function of such insulation is to protect the base in the horizontal plane (mainly from capillary groundwater). An important component of horizontal waterproofing is the drainage system, which is equipped with a high level of groundwater.

It is worth noting that under the "tape" there should be a sufficiently strong base, on top of which a waterproofing layer will be laid. Often, a “cushion” of a slightly larger width is cast for this than that of the future foundation. In the absence of a need for high quality(for example, if the foundation is being built for a bath) it is enough to prepare a screed of sand and cement in a ratio of 2: 1. In Soviet times, asphalt screed was made, but today this technology is practically not used.

The horizontal waterproofing procedure consists of several stages.

Stage 1. The bottom of the pit, dug under the base, is covered with a sandy "cushion" about 20-30 cm thick (clay can be used instead of sand) and carefully compacted.

Stage 3. When the screed dries (it takes about 12-14 days), it is covered with bituminous mastic and a layer of roofing material is fixed. Then the procedure is repeated: applying mastic - fastening the roofing material. On top of the second layer, another screed of the same thickness is poured.

Stage 4. When the concrete hardens, the construction of the foundation itself begins, the surfaces of which are additionally covered with vertical types of waterproofing (they will be discussed later).

Important information! If the building will be built from a log house, then it is necessary to waterproof the top of the foundation as well, since the first crown will be installed there. Otherwise, the wood may rot.

Drainage

Drainage may be required in two cases:

if the permeability of the soil is low and water accumulates rather than being absorbed by it;
if the depth of the foundation is lower or corresponds to the depth of the groundwater.

The algorithm of actions for the arrangement of the drainage system should be as follows.

Stage 1. Along the perimeter of the structure - about 80-100 cm from the foundation - a small pit 25-30 cm wide is dug. The depth should exceed the depth of pouring the base by 20-25 cm. It is important that the pit has a slight slope in the direction of the water collector, where water will accumulate.

Stage 2. The bottom is covered with geotextile, while the edges of the material must be wrapped on the walls by at least 60 cm. After that, a 5-centimeter layer of gravel is poured.

Stage 3. A special drainage pipe is installed on top with a slope towards the water collector of 0.5 cm / 1 linear meter. m.

Laying pipes on geotextiles and backfilling crushed stone

Thanks to this design, water will flow into the drainage pipe, while it (pipe) will not become clogged. Moisture will be discharged into the water collector (it can be a well or a pit, and the dimensions depend on the inflow of water and are determined on an individual basis).

Prices for a drainage well

drainage well

Vertical waterproofing

Vertical type insulation is the processing of the walls of the finished foundation. There are several ways to protect the base, which are possible both during the construction of the building and after construction.

Table. Strengths and weaknesses of the most popular waterproofing options

Material	Operational period	Ease of repair	Elasticity	Strength	Cost, per m²
	5 to 10 years	★★★☆☆	★★★★★	★★☆☆☆	About 680 rubles
Polyurethane mastic	50 to 100 years old	★★★☆☆	★★★★★	★★☆☆☆	About 745 rubles
Rolled bituminous materials	20 to 50 years old	★☆☆☆☆	-	★☆☆☆☆	About 670 rubles
Polymer membranes (PVC, TPO, etc.)	50 to 100 years old	-	★☆☆☆☆	★★★☆☆	About 1300 rubles

Inexpensive and simple, and therefore the most popular way to waterproof the foundation. It implies complete processing with bituminous mastic, penetrating into all cracks and voids and preventing moisture from entering the house.

Important information! When choosing one or another bituminous mastic, pay attention to the marking - this will help you find out the heat resistance of the material. For example, mastic marked MBK-G-65 has a heat resistance (for five hours) of 65°C, and MBK-G-100 - 100°C, respectively.

Advantages of bituminous mastic:

ease of use (can be done alone);
affordable cost;
elasticity.

Flaws:

low speed of work (requires the application of several layers, which takes a lot of time);
not the best water resistance (even high-quality application does not guarantee 100% protection);
fragility (in 10 years you will have to re-treat the foundation).

The process of applying mastic is extremely simple and consists of several stages.

Stage 1. Surface preparation. Below are the basic requirements.

The surface of the foundation must be solid, with chamfered or rounded (ø40-50 mm) edges and corners. Fillets are made at the transition points of the vertical to the horizontal - so the joined surfaces will be mated more smoothly.
For bitumen, sharp protrusions are extremely dangerous, appearing where the formwork elements are joined. These protrusions are removed.
Concrete areas covered with shells from air bubbles are rubbed with a fine-grained cement mortar based on a dry building mix. Otherwise, bubbles will appear in the freshly applied mastic, which will burst 10 minutes after application.

Also, dirt and dust should be removed from the surface, and then dried thoroughly.

Important information! Substrate moisture is a very important indicator and should not exceed 4%. At a higher value, the mastic will swell or begin to flake off.

Testing the base for moisture is quite simple: you need to lay a piece of PE film measuring 1x1 m on the concrete surface. And if there is no condensation on the film in a day, then you can safely proceed to further work.

Stage 2. In order to increase adhesion, the prepared base is primed with a bituminous primer.

You can go the other way and prepare a bitumen primer yourself. To do this, BN70/30 grade bitumen must be diluted with a rapidly evaporating solvent (for example, gasoline) in a ratio of 1:3.

One layer of primer is applied over the entire surface, two at the junction. This can be done with either a brush or a roller. After the primer dries, the actual mastic is applied.

Stage 3. The bitumen bar is broken into small pieces and melted in a bucket over a fire.

It is recommended to add a small amount of “mining” there during heating. Then liquid bitumen is applied in 3-4 layers. It is important that the material does not cool down in the container, because with one more heating, it partially loses its properties.

The total thickness of the waterproofing layer depends on the depth of the base pour (see table).

Table. The ratio of the thickness of the bitumen layer to the depth of the foundation

Stage 4. After drying, the bitumen should be protected, since it can be damaged when backfilled with soil containing debris. To do this, you can use rolled geotextiles or EPPS insulation.

Prices for bituminous mastic

bituminous mastic

Video - Insulation of the EPPS foundation

Reinforcement

Bituminous insulation needs reinforcement on:

cold seams;
junction of surfaces;
cracks in concrete, etc.

Often, fiberglass and fiberglass are used for reinforcement.

The fiberglass material must be sunk into the first layer of bitumen and rolled with a roller - this will provide a tighter abutment. As soon as the mastic dries, the next layer is applied. It is important that the fiberglass material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm on both sides.

Reinforcement will provide a more uniform distribution of the load on the entire insulating strip, minimize bitumen elongation in the places of cracks and, as a result, significantly extend the service life.

fiberglass prices

fiberglass

It can serve as both the main protection and addition to the applied bituminous mastic. Usually ruberoid is used for this.

Among the advantages of the method should be highlighted:

low cost;
availability;
good service life (about 50 years).

As for the shortcomings, this can only be attributed to the fact that one cannot cope with the work alone. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Stage 1.

Unlike the previous method, there is no need to carefully apply the material, since the mastic is needed solely for attaching the rolled waterproofing to the base.

Stage 2. Using a burner, the roofing material is slightly heated from below, after which it is superimposed on a layer of hot bitumen. Sheets of roofing material are joined with an overlap of 10-15 cm, all joints are processed with a burner.

Stage 3. After fixing the roofing material, you can fill up the foundation, because additional protection is not required here.

Important information! Roofing material can be replaced with more modern materials that are welded onto the base. These can be polymer films or canvases with bitumen-polymer coating (for example, Izoelast, Technoelast, etc.).

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

Video - Waterproofing with roofing material

This method is extremely simple to perform and is used for waterproofing and leveling the foundation surface. Here advantages of plaster waterproofing:

simplicity;
high speed of work;
affordable cost of materials.

Flaws:

low water resistance;
short service life (about 15 years);
possible cracks.

There is nothing complicated in the application process. First, with the help of dowels, a putty mesh is attached to the foundation, then it is prepared plaster mix with waterproof components. The mixture is applied to the foundation with a spatula. After the plaster has dried, the soil is poured.

In fact, this is a dispersion of polymer-modified bitumen particles in water. The composition is sprayed onto the base, providing high-quality waterproofing. Advantages this method are as follows:

high quality waterproofing;
no need for special skills;
durability.

But there is also limitations:

high cost of the composition;
low speed of operation in the absence of a sprayer.

In addition, liquid rubber is not available everywhere. For the foundation, the same type of composition, which can be of two types, is quite suitable.

Elastomix - applied in 1 layer, hardens for about 2 hours. Further storage after opening the package is not subject to.
Elastopaz is a cheaper option, but it is already applied in 2 layers. What is characteristic, Elastopaz is subject to storage even after opening the package.

Stage 1. The surface is cleaned of dirt and debris.

Stage 2. The foundation is covered with a special primer. Alternatively, a mixture of liquid rubber and water (1:1 ratio) can be used.

Stage 3. After an hour, when the primer dries, a waterproofing material is applied (one or two layers, depending on the type of composition). It is advisable to use a sprayer for this, but you can use a roller or brush instead.

liquid rubber prices

liquid rubber

Video - Processing the base with liquid rubber

Penetrating insulation

On the base, previously cleaned of dirt and slightly moistened with water, a special mixture (Penetron, Aquatro, etc.) is applied with a sprayer, penetrating into the structure by about 150 mm. It is important that the solution is applied in two or three layers.

Main Benefits:

effective protection;
the possibility of processing surfaces inside the building;
ease of operation;
long operational period.

Flaws:

low prevalence of such solutions;
high price.

Making a clay castle

A simple, but at the same time effective way to protect the base from moisture. First, a foundation pit is dug around the foundation with a depth of 0.5-0.6 m, then the bottom is covered with a 5-centimeter gravel or crushed stone "cushion". After that, clay is poured in several stages (each layer is carefully compacted). The clay itself will act as a buffer against moisture.

The only advantage of the method is the ease of implementation.

Clay castle is suitable only for wells and household facilities. If, for example, we are talking about a residential building, then this method can only be used as an addition to the already existing waterproofing.

This method of protecting the base appeared relatively recently and is as follows: mats filled with clay are nailed to the cleaned surface of the foundation using a mounting gun or dowels. The laying of mats should overlap, by about 12-15 cm. Sometimes special clay concrete panels are used instead of mats, in which case the joints must be further processed.

Overlap - photo

In principle, screen insulation is an improved version of a clay castle, therefore it can only be used for household structures.

Summing up. Which option to choose?

The optimal option for waterproofing a strip foundation should include both horizontal and vertical waterproofing. If, for one reason or another, horizontal insulation was not laid during construction, it is better to resort to bituminous mastic or special plaster. But, we repeat, it will be most effective only in combination with horizontal type protection.

Floor waterproofing is necessary not only in a private house. There are times when you can’t do without it in apartments. If the apartment is located on the first floor above the basement, moisture and mold from the underground space can move up the walls.

In this case, the floor will be constantly damp and cold, and over time it may even begin to crack and collapse. To avoid these troubles and the constant smell of mold in your apartment, waterproofing the floor is a must for the first floors. But there are cases, especially in old houses, when even on upper floors the floor and walls are saturated with dampness, which penetrates through cracks from the street. In this case, it is also necessary to take care of reliable waterproofing in order to avoid the appearance of mold in the apartment, which is very dangerous to health.

As for private houses, floor waterproofing is mandatory, even if foundation building took place according to all the rules and in compliance with all technologies.

Types of floor waterproofing

Materials for creating reliable waterproofing are selected taking into account what kind of room it is, how it will be operated. In any case, these measures are aimed at creating a dense and reliable waterproof layer on the floor, which also has water-repellent properties. Thanks to this, the floor will be reliably protected from rotting and destruction.

Waterproofing by area of application is:

outdoor
internal

Depending on the main water-repellent substance, it is divided into:

bituminous
polymeric
bitumen-polymer
based on mineral components

Waterproofing the floor in the house can be done using the following materials:

film
rolled
membrane
penetrating
pasting
painting
powder
plastering
coating

Film waterproofing materials

The most popular and familiar to everyone are roofing material, roofing felt and glass roofing material. In the last century, almost all waterproofing work was carried out with the help of these building materials. They continue to be used in modern times, using for reliable protection against moisture not only floors, but roofs and foundations. These materials are thick cardboard or fiberglass, which are impregnated during their manufacture with bitumen and basalt chips. The result is a well-known roofing material or roofing felt.

Do-it-yourself waterproofing With the help of such materials it is quite possible, because no special equipment is needed for their installation. It is very important to ensure that there is not a large distance between the joints of the roofing material. Ideally, they need to be soldered with a torch.

There are modern film materials that are used for waterproofing. These are multilayer polymeric membranes, which, among other things, have excellent thermal insulation properties. If waterproofing of a concrete floor is required, polypropylene, polyethylene or PVC film is most often used, all of which are produced in rolls. They are laid before starting work on creating a cement-sand or dry screed.

Mastic for waterproofing

If you are looking for a way to make waterproofing inexpensively and quickly, this building material is right for you. Mastic is a plastic adhesive composition based on liquid rubber, bitumen, resins, plasticizers and polymers. It is often used in residential areas to create a dense waterproof layer on the floor. It is also suitable for processing joints in bathrooms, kitchens, swimming pools, saunas.

When choosing mastic, please note that they are of hot and cold type. This material is good because, in addition to forming an elastic and dense waterproof film, it fills all the cracks and pores in the material from which the floor is made.

Materials for waterproofing liquid water-repellent

These include all kinds of paints, primers, varnishes, impregnations, injection formulations for topical use, which, after curing, create a dense water-repellent film. If "breathing" waterproofing of the floor screed is needed, there are modern impregnations that penetrate deep into the pores of the material. After drying, they form breathable crystals that do not let water through at all.

If you need waterproofing a wooden floor, you need to select liquid materials that are designed specifically for wood. As a rule, they protect not only from moisture, but also from the development of fungal microorganisms, as well as bark beetles.

Powder waterproofing materials

These are all kinds of dry mixes, which are based on cement, glue, plasticizers and binders. They can be used to make DIY waterproofing, it is only important to carefully read the instructions and follow the application technology. To prepare such a mixture, water must be added to it immediately before starting work. It is only important to observe the indicated proportions, if you try to save money and pour more water to get more mixture, the result may disappoint you. Such waterproof mixtures are suitable for creating concrete screeds not only in living quarters, but also basement pools, bathrooms.

How to properly waterproof

Whatever material you choose for waterproofing, there is something for everyone general rule. In all junctions of the floor with walls, as well as with other protruding structures, such as columns, the waterproofing layer must necessarily rise 30 cm above the floor level without interruption.

How to apply liquid waterproofing

The application technology depends on which material you have chosen, namely, impregnating or cast. Floor screed waterproofing with the help of cast materials, it may well be done independently. A bitumen or polymer solution is applied to the surface in an even layer, which, after hardening, will turn into an elastic and dense waterproof film. Bituminous mastic must be preheated to + 120-140 degrees. Then it is poured onto the floor thoroughly cleaned of debris and dust. Using a spatula, it must be well leveled so that the layer is uniform.

Cast waterproofing under the floor is used in cases where it is necessary to protect a monolithic base from moisture before a sand-cement screed is laid on it. For reliability, several layers of waterproofing material will be required, if necessary, they can be reinforced with fiberglass or metal mesh. The thickness of the resulting waterproof film should be from 5 to 15 cm. Liquid waterproofing materials can be applied with a brush, but it is very convenient to do this using a sprayer.

Impregnation floor waterproofing consists in applying special impregnations to the floor surface. It is best to use a sprayer in this case to distribute the waterproofing material evenly over the entire floor. But you can also do this with a brush. Depending on the material from which the floor is made, an impregnation with the desired penetration depth is selected. After it hardens, a seamless monolithic waterproof membrane is obtained. This modern method of waterproofing is now very popular, so it is already provided in many finished house projects .

Creation of waterproofing with coating and coloring materials

The cast method of waterproofing involves working with heated materials, such as mastic. The painting or coating method differs in that cold rubber-epoxy or polymeric materials are used, as well as varnishes or paints. The composition is applied to the surface using a tool, depending on its viscosity. For this, both ordinary brushes and rollers are suitable.

Whatever material you choose to create a coating or paint waterproofing, remember that it must be applied in a thin layer of about 2-3 mm, but evenly. The result is an excellent waterproof layer that will also serve as an antifungal and corrosion protection. The only drawback is the fragility of such waterproofing, it will need to be updated every 5 years.

How to make waterproofing with gluing materials

When creating such a waterproofing, selected roll or sheet waterproof building materials are glued to the floor, which is previously well cleaned of dust and treated with a primer.

There are three ways to create waterproofing pasting:

you can make a simple flooring of materials on the surface, this method is suitable for a dry or cement screed, you can also lay materials under a plywood floor. Waterproofing a wooden floor can also be done in this way.
Rolled materials can be welded to the surface using a torch. This method requires strict adherence to safety standards so that a fire does not occur. Doing it yourself is not recommended, to perform such construction works it is better to invite experts.
Roll waterproofing can be glued to the floor using mastic or special glue.

Modern roll waterproofing comes with an adhesive layer, so it is very easy to lay it. If you have chosen materials without such an adhesive layer, you need to buy a polymer-bitumen-based mastic for gluing them. When choosing it, be sure to look at the melting point in the technical specifications. It is necessary to select such a mastic, in which this indicator is at least 20 degrees higher than the maximum possible temperature in the room.

Remember that all types of liner waterproofing are very sensitive to tensile and shear loads. Therefore, it is most often used for concrete and brick structures.

Waterproofing with plaster

This is an old way to protect the floor from moisture, but it is still used today, as stucco mixtures have improved. Now you can choose a mixture in which there will be a high concentration of water-repellent additives, just this one is ideal for waterproofing. This method is good because with the help of a plastic solution you can quickly and reliably fill absolutely all cracks and crevices in the floor, as well as get rid of bumps. Easy to apply with a spatula or brush.

Waterproofing with plaster is suitable for wood, concrete, stone, tiles, it can even be applied over paint. There is also a filling mixture for waterproofing, which is considered a kind of plaster. It is evenly scattered on the floor, absorbing moisture, it hardens and forms a durable layer.

It takes at least 14 days for the waterproofing layer made with plaster to completely harden. It must be ensured that it does not dry out, otherwise cracks form on it. It is very important during the first days after laying the plaster layer to moisten it with water every 3 hours, it is convenient to do this with a sprayer. After that, you need to moisturize the layer at least twice a week.

Features of waterproofing underfloor heating

It is very important to follow the technology of creating waterproofing, as it is necessary to provide reliable protection from water to all elements of the underfloor heating. Before pouring the screed, you need to treat the base with mastic. You can also use rolled materials for this, while it is important to close all the seams with bituminous mastic, and also lay them overlapping the walls by at least 30 cm.

There is also an alternative option. You can make coating waterproofing using bitumen-polymer, cement-polymer or traditional bituminous mastic for this. After complete solidification of such a waterproofing layer, it will be necessary to fill in cement-sand screed, on which you can put the finishing floor covering. The result is a reliable and durable waterproofing, which will perfectly protect all elements of the underfloor heating from corrosion.

How is waterproofing done? Waterproofing measures to protect the foundation

What is dangerous moisture for the foundation

What types of waterproofing are used to protect the foundation

Horizontal foundation waterproofing

Vertical waterproofing of foundation walls and plinth

Repair of the wall surface and their impregnating (penetrating) waterproofing

Video: the use of penetrating waterproofing system "Penetrat"

Coating vertical waterproofing of the foundation

Foundation waterproofing prices

Step-by-step instructions for waterproofing the foundation with self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material "Technoelast-Barrier (BO)"

Prices for Technoelast-Barrier

Video: foundation waterproofing by fusing roll materials

The main types of waterproofing floors

Coating type waterproofing

How is coating (painting) waterproofing applied?

Prices for coating waterproofing

Video: bathroom waterproofing master work

Plaster waterproofing

Prices for plaster waterproofing

Gluing waterproofing

Laying adhesive waterproofing

Cast waterproofing

Hot waterproofing

Hot waterproofing installation

Cold cast waterproofing

"Liquid rubber

Prices for liquid rubber Apiflex

How to apply "liquid" rubber

"Liquid glass"

What waterproofing to choose for the foundation?

Pasting insulation

Coating insulation

Penetrating insulation

The better to do foundation waterproofing - Penetron materials

Foundation waterproofing technology

Preparatory work

Final treatment with Penetron

The main methods of waterproofing

Drainage

Prices for a drainage well

Vertical waterproofing

Prices for bituminous mastic

Video - Insulation of the EPPS foundation

Reinforcement

fiberglass prices

Prices for roofing material

Video - Waterproofing with roofing material

liquid rubber prices

Video - Processing the base with liquid rubber

Penetrating insulation

Making a clay castle

Summing up. Which option to choose?

Types of floor waterproofing

Film waterproofing materials

Mastic for waterproofing

Materials for waterproofing liquid water-repellent

Powder waterproofing materials

How to properly waterproof

How to apply liquid waterproofing

Creation of waterproofing with coating and coloring materials

How to make waterproofing with gluing materials

Waterproofing with plaster

Features of waterproofing underfloor heating

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