If you want to create an unusual lighting design in your home and save on your electricity bills along the way, learn how to connect a dimmer. This device allows you to smoothly adjust the voltage on halogen and conventional lamps.
In everyday life, the devices we describe are used to regulate the operating temperature of electric stoves, irons, soldering irons and other heating devices, as well as to adjust the brightness of lamps. For this reason, dimmers are often called dimmers.
Important point! The regulators in question must not be used with pulse and transformer devices (radios, old TVs). If you connect a dimmer to them, they will simply fail. But dimmers can be safely connected to any incandescent lamps and halogen lighting fixtures.
Dimmer for incandescent lamps
The device will protect them by supplying a minimum current to the light bulbs when the electricity is turned on. Due to this, the lamps will work much longer (as you know, most often they burn out precisely because of starting voltage surges). Some modern dimmers not only regulate the degree, but can also perform other functions that make life easier and make it much more comfortable. Sophisticated dimmers can:
- controlled from the remote control or voice commands;
- turn lamps off and on according to a preset timer;
- become part of the increasingly popular smart home systems;
- change the light temperature automatically, create a flashing lighting effect.
It is clear that inexpensive dimmers cannot do any of the above. But with their main function - adjusting the light level, they do an excellent job.
Rheostat dimmers are considered the simplest and cheapest. Nowadays they are used very rarely, as they are characterized by a low efficiency and inconvenience in use due to the fact that they heat up very much during operation.
More modern are transistor, thyristor and triac mechanisms. They can have additional functions, are highly efficient and at the same time affordable. But it is undesirable to use such regulators with household devices that place increased demands on the type of power supply. Another disadvantage is the creation of electrical interference for other equipment.
Thyristor and transistor dimmers, despite these disadvantages, are the most popular. If you plan to replace a standard switch with a dimmer, buy these devices. Without extra financial costs, you will have at your disposal a stably functioning device that you can connect correctly and quickly with your own hands.
Transistor dimmer
If the financial issue is not of particular importance to you, you can purchase light control devices made on the basis of automatic transformers. They are able to produce an ideal sinusoid of current. Such devices are installed to regulate the operation of large and expensive household units.
Dimmers, in addition, are divided into different types according to their design. From this point of view, the following devices exist:
- Modular - the optimal type of device for halogen and conventional incandescent lamps. They are mounted on a DIN rail directly in the apartment or home electrical panel. Modular devices are controlled using a key-type switch or using an external button.
- Installed in a box designed for mounting a standard switch. These devices are controlled by a special button. It is integrated into the smart home system or placed on the surface of the box. Such dimmers are compatible with all types of lamps (except fluorescent), as well as with electronic and step-down transformers.
- Mini regulators. These are commonly called cord dimmers. They make it possible to control the operation of floor lamps, small sconces and table lighting fixtures. In most cases, corded dimmers are only compatible with incandescent light bulbs.
Monoblock regulators are most widespread among household users. They are installed instead of a standard switch. We'll talk about them.
Such dimmers come in various modifications. They differ from each other in their control options. It could be:
- Sensory. Professionals call devices with this control option the most reliable in operation. In fact, there is nothing to break in them, since the regulators do not have any mechanical elements. You just need to lightly touch the dimmer screen to activate it.
- Rotary. To turn off the lamp, you need to turn the dial of the device all the way to the left. A variation of such a dimmer is a rotary-push mechanism. The user needs to click on the device to turn it off or on. And the adjustment of the required level of illumination is carried out by turning the dial.
- Keyboard. It is externally impossible to distinguish such a dimmer from a regular switch. You need to press the key to turn on the light and hold it pressed for a certain time. While the key is held down, the lighting intensity increases.
Monoblock key dimmer
An important nuance. Monoblock dimmers of various types can be connected to certain devices and lamps. The packaging with the dimmer always indicates what equipment it can work with.
Having a home master with minimal knowledge in the electrical field will allow him to correctly connect a monoblock dimmer in his home. There are no special difficulties here. The main thing to remember is that the regulator is mounted exclusively into the phase cable break. Under no circumstances should the device be connected to the neutral. If you make this mistake, you can immediately go buy a new dimmer. Its electronic circuit will simply burn out.
Instead of a switch, the dimmer is installed according to the following scheme:
- Turn off the electricity supply to the apartment at the power panel.
- Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the installed switch and remove it.
- Apply power to the panel, use a screwdriver with an LED, a multimeter or an electrical tester to determine the phase wire. Mark it in a way convenient for you (stick a piece of adhesive tape or tape, put a mark with a pencil).
- Now you can turn off the shield and proceed directly to installing the dimmer. This is not difficult to do. You need to feed the phase wire that you marked to the input of the regulator. From the output it will go to the junction box (that is, to the load), and then to the lighting fixture itself.
Installing a dimmer
There are dimmers with signed output and input contacts. In them, it is necessary to feed the phase wire to the corresponding connector. If the contacts on the dimmer are not specially marked, the phase is supplied to any of the available inputs.
After connecting the dimmer, you need to install it back into the socket box, put a decorative cover and a potentiometer wheel on the dimmer (if you are installing a rotary-push or rotary mechanism). All! You were able to connect the dimmer to the switch correctly. Use the installed device for your pleasure!
In bedrooms, experts advise installing a dimmer not instead of a standard switch, but in series with it. It is advisable to mount the dimmer itself right next to the bed (then you can adjust the lighting without getting up from it). And the old switch is left in its usual place - at the entrance to the bedroom. You will use it when entering and leaving the premises.
Installing a dimmer near the bed
If you want to control the lighting of a room from different points, you are allowed to install two controllers at once. In this case, you will need to connect the first and second terminals on the dimmer to each other and connect the phase to the third connector of any of the devices. The remaining output on the other dimmer will serve for the wire that goes to the load.
Finally, let's figure out how to properly connect a dimmer to LED lamps or strips. In fact, the procedure is performed in the same way as in the case of connecting conventional lighting fixtures. But there is one caveat. You need to place the regulator directly in front of the controller. That is, you need to do the following:
- Connect the dimmer to a phase break.
- Connect the device output to the controller input.
This is what a dimmer for incandescent lamps looks like
In this article, we will look at a device that is sold in electrical goods stores as a dimmer for incandescent lamps. This is about dimmer. The name comes from the English verb “to dim” - to darken, become dim. In other words, you can use a dimmer to adjust the brightness of an incandescent lamp.
The remarkable thing is that the power consumption decreases proportionally. Although the dimmer has many more applications, which we will talk about at the end of the article.
The simplest dimmers have one rotary knob for adjustment and two terminals for connection, and are used to adjust the brightness of incandescent and halogen lamps. Recently, dimmers have appeared to adjust the brightness of fluorescent lamps.
In fact, the dimer is a switch with a brightness control that can simply be connected instead of a key switch. But more on that later.
Previously, rheostats were used to adjust the brightness of incandescent lamps, the power of which was no less than the load power. Moreover, when the brightness was reduced, the remaining power was not saved in any way, but was dissipated uselessly in the form of heat on the rheostat. At the same time, no one talked about savings; they simply didn’t exist. And such devices were used where it was really only necessary to adjust the brightness - for example, in theaters.
This was the case before the advent of wonderful semiconductor devices - dinistor And triac(symmetrical thyristor). In English-language practice, other names are accepted - diak And triac. These names have almost entered Russian electronic reality.
Dimmer connection diagram
The dimmer switching circuit is incredibly simple - it couldn’t be simpler. It turns on in the same way as a regular switch - through an open circuit in the power supply circuit of the load, that is, the lamp. In terms of installation dimensions and mounting, the dimmer is identical to the switch. Therefore, it can be installed in the same way as a switch - in a mounting box, and installing a dimmer is no different from installing a regular switch.
Physics textbook for 5th grade... But this is for consistency of presentation.
How to connect a dimmer instead of a switch
Recently, people are increasingly replacing conventional switches with dimmers. Changing a switch to a dimmer is very simple. The switch has two outputs (two terminals), and the dimmer also has two terminals. We simply connect the dimmer instead of the switch, using the same wires that were connected to the switch.
Polarity doesn't matter. However, if you have determined where the phase is using a phase indicator (indicator screwdriver), then it is better to connect the phase conductor to the L terminal of the dimmer. Just for order.
Turning on a light bulb through a dimmer
The only condition that the manufacturer imposes is to comply with the connection of the terminals to the phase and to the load. Although, as practice shows, you don’t have to worry about this - everything works well with any connection.
If previously the chandelier was turned on through a two-key switch, then through the dimer all the bulbs will light up (glow) simultaneously. We connect a phase to one terminal of the dimmer, and the other two wires to the second.
Types of dimmers
All dimmers that are currently on sale can be divided into 2 groups - rotary (with a regulator - potentiometer) and electronic, controlled using buttons.
When adjusting (dimming) with the potentiometer knob, the brightness depends on the angle of rotation. And one rotary dimer works like one switch; it is impossible to achieve more from it. I'm talking about pass-through switches, parallel-series connection, etc. My not entirely successful experience is described on SamElectric in the article.
A push-button dimmer is more flexible in terms of control flexibility. You can connect several buttons in parallel and control the dimmer from any number of places. Of course, this is theoretical, in practice the number of control places is limited to 3-4, and the maximum length of wires is about 10 meters, and the circuit can be critical to interference and interference. There are also remote dimmers controlled via radio or infrared.
The price of dimmers with a regulator and with buttons differs by an order of magnitude, because a button dimmer (for example, a Legrand dimmer) is usually assembled using a microcontroller. Therefore much more common rotary dimmers, which we will consider below.
There are also industrial varieties of dimmers in the form of solid-state relays with resistor control; this type of dimmer is discussed in the article.
Dimmer device for incandescent lamps
Here are some photos of rotary dimmer designs.
Gunsan dimmer device
Gunsan dimmer – view from the soldering side
Makel dimmer device
Makel dimmer device - view from the soldering side
As you can see, the dimmer device is very simple, but may differ from one manufacturer to another. The main difference is the quality of assembly and components.
Triac dimmer circuit
The circuit of triac brightness controllers is basically the same everywhere, differing only in the presence of additional parts for more stable operation at low “output” voltages and for smooth regulation. Also, details are introduced into the circuit to reduce the level of interference generated by the dimer into the network.
The simplest dimer scheme
The operating principle of the circuit is as follows. In order for the lamp to light up, the triac must pass current through itself. This will happen when a certain voltage appears between the electrodes of triac A1 and G (which one - see in the datasheet, can be downloaded at the bottom of the article). This is how it appears.
At the beginning of the positive half-wave, the capacitor begins to charge through the potentiometer R. It is clear that the charging speed depends on the value of R. In smart words, the potentiometer changes the phase angle. When the voltage on the capacitor reaches a value sufficient to open the triac and dinistor (see datasheet for dinistor), the triac opens. In other words, its resistance becomes very small, and the light bulb burns until the end of the half-wave.
The same thing happens with the negative half-wave, since diac and triac are symmetrical devices, and they do not care in which direction the current flows through them.
As a result, it turns out that the voltage on the active load represents “stubs” of negative and positive half-waves, which follow each other with a frequency of 100 Hz. At low brightness, when the lamp is powered by very short “pieces” of voltage, flickering is noticeable. The same cannot be said about rheostat regulators and regulators with frequency conversion.
This is what a real light controller circuit looks like. The parameters of the elements are indicated taking into account the variation among different manufacturers, but this does not change the essence.
Practical diagram of a rotary dimmer
More details about the operation of the dimmer can be found in the video:
You can install any triacs in this circuit, depending on the load power. Voltage - not lower than 400 V, since the instantaneous voltage in the network can reach 350 V. Dinistor - DB3, in extreme cases DB4. The starting and ending points of ignition and the stability of the lamp’s combustion depend on the size of the capacitors and resistors.
At the maximum resistance of resistor R1, there will be minimal lamp burning, since the triac will open at the end of the half-wave, or will not open at all.
Alternative uses of a dimmer
The fact that a dimmer can only regulate the brightness of incandescent lamps is the narrow-mindedness of marketers; it has many more applications.
Dimmer is a device for regulating voltage. In the everyday sense, it is used to adjust the light in a room, room, or a separate part of the apartment. Thanks to a dimmer, you can not only save on lighting, but also create an interesting lighting design for your apartment. Sophisticated electronic dimmers allow you to change the intensity of the light, turn it on and off automatically, and control the lighting from a remote control or using a sound signal.
After choosing the appropriate type of dimmer taking into account the operating network voltage, you need to select its characteristics correctly. The main indicator is the power for which this dimmer should be designed. This value is determined by the power consumption of the lighting system plus a certain reserve that will help the dimmer reliably work out its life.
The dimmer connection diagram is similar to. The dimmer, like the switch, is installed in series with the load. Moreover, this device can be placed in the same place where a regular switch was located. Before connecting a dimmer instead of a switch, you must turn off the mains power, disconnect the power wires from the switch terminals and install a dimmer in its place, since its installation dimensions correspond to the dimensions of the switch.
When connecting the dimmer to the electrical network, it must be taken into account that it must be connected to the gap of the phase wire designated by the letter L, but not the neutral wire marked N.
Connection diagram for dimmer with switch
More convenient, especially for the bedroom, is the circuit for switching the dimmer in series with a regular switch. In this case, it is better to install the dimmer near the bed so that it is convenient to control the light intensity without getting out of bed.
The application is especially promising in smart home systems. Lighting control allows you to zone a room depending on the situation and highlight individual interior details with lighting.
You can find out how to turn on chandelier lamps in groups with a single switch with several keys.
A regular switch is installed near the door of the room. It is needed to turn the light on and off when entering or leaving the bedroom.
Switching on the dimmer with pass-through switches
The principle of operation is that switches allow you to turn on the light when entering a room and turn off the light on the other side of the corridor or staircase. The connection diagram for a pass-through dimmer has its own characteristics.
It must be taken into account that the device cannot be switched on between two pass-through switches where two electrical lines are laid. It is better to include it in the phase wire between the switch and the load.
Another feature of this circuit is that if it is in the off state, the pass-through switches will not work.
Lighting control from different points in the room
To provide this lighting control option, 2 schemes can be considered.
Installation diagram with two dimmers
When you need to regulate lighting from two different points, you can use a circuit with two dimmers. In this case, the first and second terminals of the dimmers are connected to each other. 
The phase wire is connected to the remaining third terminal of one of the dimmers, and from the third terminal of the second device the wire goes to the load. Thus, three wires come out of the junction box of each dimmer.
How to properly connect a high quality dimmer
To ensure the adjustment of room illumination from different points, it is possible to use imported high-quality push-button dimmers, for example, the Legrand Valena type produced by the French company Legrand. A special feature of this device is that the purchase package includes additional adjustment buttons that can be installed at different ends of the illuminated room. In this case, the distance from the dimmer to the farthest remote button is limited to 50 meters.
There are several options: with or without grounding, according to a selective or non-selective scheme. The use of this device allows you to ensure both the safety of people and protect devices and the network itself from accidents.
There is a guide for installing spotlights in drywall, and this will help you on how to make the right choice of LED lamps for home lighting.
The circuit diagram for switching on a dimmer with remote adjustment buttons is as follows. The phase wire approaches the dimmer terminal No. 1 and the first terminals of the remote buttons. From the second terminals of the remote buttons, the wire goes to terminal B of the dimmer. The load is connected to terminal No. 2 of the dimmer and neutral wire N.
Of course, you have to overpay significantly for the capabilities of such a branded device. Thus, a Legrand Valena dimmer, designed for 600 W, costs 2,486 rubles, while the domestic AGAT-K-200 costs about 500 rubles.So, before you install a dimmer with your own hands, you need to remember just a few rules:
- Although there are various options for connecting dimmers, their circuits are quite simple - they are installed in series with the power source in the phase wire of the power network.
- To adjust the lighting from different points in the room, you can use a circuit with one high-quality, expensive dimmer with additional remote buttons.
Video: how to connect a dimmer - a specific example
Sometimes it becomes necessary to change the lighting intensity. This is done using light brightness controls, which are more often called “dimmers”. Most of the devices are mounted instead of a regular switch - directly into the same mounting box, and many look similar. How to connect a dimmer with your own hands? Simple - into the phase wire in series with the load. The installation diagrams for the regulators are simple; you can do it yourself.
Purpose and functions
Dimmers (in English dimmer) are used in everyday life to adjust the brightness of lamps and the temperature of heating devices (soldering irons, irons, electric stoves, etc.). These devices are also called dimmers or dimmers, although this is only one of the possible areas of application. They work most effectively with incandescent lamps, allowing you to extend their service life, since if there is a dimmer in the power circuit, a minimum current is supplied to the lamp when turned on. And as you know, it is the starting throws that cause their failure.
Dimmers cannot be used with transformer or switching power supplies (TVs, radios, etc.). This is due to the peculiarities of the device’s operation - at the output the signal does not look like a sinusoid, but only part of it (the tops are cut off with keys). When such power is supplied, the equipment fails.
Note! Conventional dimmers cannot be used with fluorescent lamps. Such a combination will either not work at all, or the lamp will blink. To work with these sources, there are special devices with a different circuit. In general, conventional dimmers can only control incandescent or LED lamps. When you connect energy-saving ones to them, the light begins to “blink”, but halogen ones are simply not adjustable. But you can also adjust the brightness of the light for these types of lamps - there are special dimmers, but they are more expensive.
The very first dimmers were electromechanical and could only adjust the brightness of incandescent lamps. Modern ones can provide a number of additional functions:
- turning off the lights by timer;
- turning the lighting on and off at a certain time (presence effect, used for long trips);
- acoustic control (clap or voice);
- possibility of remote control;
- various operating modes of lamps - blinking, changing light temperature, etc.;
- Possibility of integration into the “smart home” system.
The simplest dimmers still only adjust the brightness of the lighting, but this function also turns out to be very useful.
Device and types
Dimmers are made on the basis of different element bases. They all have their own characteristics and disadvantages. And to understand what a dimmer is and how it works, you need to understand what a specific device is made of. So, there may be options:
When choosing a device, it is not so important to know what type it is, but rather to take into account the nature of the load to which it will be connected (incandescent and LED or fluorescent and energy-saving lamps).
By type of design, dimmers are:
- Modular for DIN rail installation. You can connect this type of dimmer with incandescent lamps, halogen lamps with a step-down transformer. For ease of use, they have a remote control button or a key switch. Such devices are convenient, for example, for regulating the illumination of the yard and the entrance gate from the house, landing or front door.
- Dimmers on a cord. These are mini-devices that allow you to adjust the brightness of lighting fixtures that are plugged into an outlet - table lamps, sconces, floor lamps. You just need to know that they are mainly compatible with incandescent lamps.
- For installation in a mounting box. Placed in the mounting box under the switch (in the same box). Compatible with incandescent, LED, halogen step-down and electronic transformer. They are controlled by a button that is placed on top of the device or connected to the smart home system.
- Monoblock. In appearance it is very similar to a regular switch, it is placed in the same mounting box, it can be used instead of a switch. They are connected to an open phase circuit (diagrams below). This type has great species diversity. Which lamps such a dimmer can be connected to should be indicated on the case, but if it is an electronic circuit, then they work with incandescent lamps and some halogen and LED lamps (which say dimmable or have the corresponding sign). Can be controlled by:
In private houses and apartments, monoblock dimmers are most often installed. A modular design can also be useful in a house - to change the brightness of the lighting in the local area with the ability to control it from the house. For such cases, there are models that allow you to control lighting from two places - pass-through dimmers (work on the principle).
Monoblock dimmer connection diagram
Most often, monoblock light controllers are connected independently. They are installed instead of a switch. With a single-phase network, the connection diagram is the same as on a conventional switch - in series with the load - with a phase break. This is a very important nuance. Dimmers are installed only in the phase wire break. If you connect the dimmer incorrectly (into the neutral gap), the electronic circuit will fail. In order not to make a mistake, before installation you need to determine exactly which of the wires is phase and which is neutral (zero).
If we are talking about installing a dimmer in place of the switch, then you must first disconnect the wires from the switch terminals (with the power turned off on the panel), turn on the machine and use a tester, multimeter or indicator (screwdriver with LED) to find the phase wire (by touching the probe to the phase on the device some readings appear or the LED lights up, but there should be no potential in the neutral (zero) wire).
The found phase can be designated in some way - by putting a line on the insulation, sticking a piece of electrical tape, colored tape, etc. Then the power is turned off again (input switch on the panel) - you can connect a dimmer.
The connection diagram for the light controller is simple: the found phase wire is supplied to the input of the device, and from the output the wire goes to the load (in the figure, to the junction box, and from there to the lamp).
There are two types of dimmers - in some, the input and output contacts are labeled. In this case, you must follow the instructions and apply the phase exactly to the signed input. On other devices, inputs are not signed. The phase connection in them is arbitrary.
Let's look at how to connect a dimmer with a rotary disk. First you need to disassemble it. To do this, take out the disk - you need to pull it towards you. There is a button under the disk that is secured with a clamping nut.
We unscrew this nut (you can use your fingers) and remove the front panel. Under it there is a mounting plate, which we will then screw to the wall. The dimmer is disassembled and ready for installation.
We connect it according to the diagram (see below): we connect the phase wire to one input (if there is an input marking, then to it), to the second input we connect the conductor that goes to the lamp/chandelier.
All that remains is to secure it. We insert the connected regulator into the mounting box and secure it with screws.
Then we put on the front panel, fix it with the previously removed nut and, lastly, install the rotary disk. Dimmer installed. Turn on the power and check the operation.
How to connect a dimmer to an LED lamp or strip
There are no fundamental differences in the connection method. The only peculiarity is that the dimmer is placed in front of the controller of LED lamps or strips (see diagram). There are no other differences.
Everything is exactly the same: the dimmer is placed in the break of the phase wire, but its output is fed to the input of the controller of the led lamp or strip.
Installation of Fibaro FGD211 dimmer with switch
The peculiarity of this model is that it is compatible with the smart home system and is controlled from a computer. There are devices that are controlled with a regulator installed in a convenient location.
Dimmers that are installed in the mounting box to the switch are also placed in the phase wire gap, but the installation process itself is slightly different. The switch is also removed, we find the phase, and mark the wire. Next, take the dimmer, connect terminals 0 and N with a jumper (a piece of copper wire in a sheath). We connect pieces of wire 7-10 cm long to contacts S1 and Sx.
The next step is to connect the regulator to the wiring. We install the phase wire on the connector with the letter L, the neutral wire on N. We insert the connected device into the installation box (we bend the wires).
We screw the switch frame into place, then put on the front cover and keys, program the system and check the operation.
If you need to connect a dimmer controlled by a button, it will have two more contacts to which you will need to connect an external button.
Features of selection and operation
When choosing a dimmer, you need to pay attention not only to what lamps it can work with and what functions it has. It is also necessary to look at the total load it is designed for. A maximum of one dimmer can “pull” 1000 W of load, but most models are designed for 400-700 W. Among well-known manufacturers, depending on the power, there is a significant difference in price. There is no noticeable difference in cost for Chinese products.
| Name | Power | Maximum current | Compatibility | Price | Manufacturer |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Volsten V01-11-D11-S Magenta 9008 | 600 W | 2 A | Incandescent lamps | 546 RUR | Russia/China |
| TDM Valdai RL | 600 W | 1 A | Incandescent lamps | 308 RUR | Russia/China |
| MAKEL Mimoza | 1000 W/IP 20 | 4 A | Incandescent lamps | 1200 rub. | Türkiye |
| Lezard Mira 701-1010-157 | 1000 W/IP20 | 2 A | Incandescent lamps | 770 RUR | Türkiye/China |
The second point to remember is that dimmers operate with minimal load. For those in most cases the minimum is 40 W, for some thousanders it is 100 W. If the connected lamps are of lower wattage, they may flicker or may not light up. This happens when LED lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps. In this case, one of the lamps is left as the old one (incandescent), which will provide the required minimum load.
Other operating features are related to compatibility. As already mentioned, conventional dimmers cannot work with fluorescent lamps (including energy-saving ones). Halogen ones simply do not respond to changes in the pulse shape. And if you decide to replace incandescent lamps with more economical ones, most likely you will have to change the brightness control.
The rapid pace of technological development allows us to fill our homes with cutting-edge electrical appliances. One of them is a dimmer or dimmer. The name “dimmer” comes from the English word “to dim” - to become dim, to darken. Simply put, with this device you can adjust the brightness of the lamp. And power consumption will decrease proportionally. You can connect a dimmer in any home. Want to know how to install a dimmer?
Purpose of the dimmer
A dimmer is a miniature device that is installed instead of a standard mechanical switch, and which allows you to smoothly adjust the brightness of the lighting. To adjust the brightness of light bulbs, rheostats were previously used, the power of which was not less than the load power.
The remaining power was not saved when the brightness was reduced, but was uselessly dissipated in the form of heat on the rheostat. Therefore, there was simply no saving. And such devices were not used everywhere in residential buildings, but only where they were really needed - for example, to regulate brightness in a theater. This was the case before the advent of semiconductor devices - the symmetrical thyristor and dinistor. And the first mechanical dimmer was invented in the eighties in the USA.
All modern dimmers are designed to turn on/off a lighting device, as well as adjust the light intensity. In other words, a dimmer is a regular switch with useful functions. By adjusting the brightness, more economical energy consumption is possible, which is only consumed in large quantities when necessary. Reduction in energy costs reaches approximately 60%!
Also, when using dimmers, the useful life of the lamps increases, since this indicator depends on the voltage supplied to the lamp. The main reason for lamp burnout is the rapid switching on of lamps - a sharp jump from 0 to 220V, but the current in the network with a dimmer increases smoothly.
The design of the device has built-in protection against short circuits, overloads and overheating, which is capable of opening the power circuit and blocking the current in the load when an excess load is connected or a short circuit occurs. At the same time, the light controller remains absolutely operational: you only need to eliminate the reasons for the protection being triggered - and the lighting system will start working again.
Many dimmer models support many other options. A useful innovation is the ability to regulate the lighting before the lights are turned on. To do this, you must first set the dimmer knob to the desired position, and then press it. The use of dimmers allows you to automatically turn off the lighting using a timer, simulate the “presence effect” (turning on, changing the brightness and turning off according to the program), smoothly turn off the lights, remotely control the lighting, and connect to a common “smart home” network.
Types of dimmers
Depending on the control method, there are the following types of dimmers: mechanical, the operating principle of which is based on the use of a traditional potentiometer; electronic, controlled by a touch ring; remote, which can be controlled using a remote control.
Device power
Dimmers vary depending on which lamps they will be used with. Taking into account the power and type of lighting source, the following light controllers are distinguished:
- For halogen light bulbs and incandescent lamps, which are designed for a voltage level of 220 V.
- The filament of the lighting fixture will heat up and shine weaker or brighter, depending on the voltage that is applied to it through the dimmer.
- For low-voltage halogen lamps that are powered via transformers. If the light bulbs are designed for 12-24V voltage, a transformer is required that converts the output voltage of the dimmer to a value that is within these limits. A special, adjustable transformer is required, which guarantees “soft” switching. A small current is supplied to the lamp, which effectively heats the light bulb filament, but overloads do not occur.
- For LEDs and fluorescent light bulbs. To operate dimmers with fluorescent lamps, an electronic choke in the luminaire is required. Through electronic ballasts, voltage (0-10 V) is transmitted to the lamp from the device and regulates the discharge intensity, that is, the light intensity, from its control output.
When purchasing a dimmer, you should know what kind of bulbs you will be using. To choose the right dimmer, you need to calculate the total load that it can withstand. The number 300 W on the device means that you can change the brightness of a 5-arm chandelier with bulbs that have a power of 60 W. However, always buy powerful dimmers with a power reserve!
Modular dimmers
Modular dimmers are very similar in appearance to automatic type switches and require electrical installation in a distribution panel on a DIN rail. They can be used with incandescent light bulbs and halogen lamps with step-down transformers. Such devices are needed primarily to control lighting in the corridor and staircases. Such dimmers are controlled by conventional single-key switches or a separate button.
Built-in dimmers
Such dimmers are designed for installation in a mounting box, like sockets and switches. Such dimmers are usually used with incandescent lamps, halogen lamps with a step-down transformer, and halogen lamps with an electronic transformer. Such dimmers should be controlled using a button that is placed in a box on top of the installed device.
Monoblock dimmers
A monoblock dimmer is usually made in the form of a single block for installation in a mounting box, like an ordinary switch. To install a dimmer of this type, an installation socket for a mounting box of 26 millimeters is required, depending on the model. Such devices are very convenient to use in thin partitions, where the thickness of the walls or other reasons does not allow installing a standard switch.
In turn, monoblock dimmers differ in the design of the control part:
- Rotary-push dimmers are activated when a key is pressed, and the adjustment process occurs by rotating it.
- Rotary dimmers allow all control to be performed solely by rotating the handle. The disadvantage of this solution is that the light value cannot be stored in memory for starting; the start is always carried out with minimum brightness.
- Key lighting controls are almost indistinguishable in appearance from conventional switches. When pressed, it will turn on/off, and if you hold the key for more than 3 seconds, the light brightness will be directly adjusted.
- Touch dimmers are a more advanced type of device. All control is carried out without moving parts and is therefore more reliable. Such models are controlled by touching the touch panel.
Requirements for installing a dimmer
Before installing a dimmer, there are a few key points you need to pay attention to. If you plan to load your dimmers with energy-saving or fluorescent light bulbs, you risk incurring extra costs because such lighting sources are not dimmable. Even if it seems at the initial stage that the tandem “energy-saving lamp - dimmer” is working, the life of the lamp will actually be reduced to 100 - 150 hours. And the dimmer itself, due to constant overloads, will not “live” for long.
All lighting controls require a minimum load. As a rule, this figure is 40 W. When the load decreases, which is caused by various factors, for example, one light bulb burns out, the contact deteriorates, the load flickers with an approximate frequency of 50 Hz, and sometimes there is a hum of the same frequency. With more significant drops in load, the device’s protection system will work, or the device will fail.
Dimmers react very critically to ambient temperature. When the temperature increases above plus 25 degrees, it is recommended to pay close attention to the temperature regime of the regulator, since an overheated device will easily fail if the protection fails. Never exceed the maximum load of a particular appliance. The problem of insufficient power can be solved by adding power amplifiers that allow switching devices up to 1.8 kW.
Dimmers must be used with exactly the type of load for which they are designed. Remember that less versatile devices in terms of load will work more reliably. Another important point is the prohibition of simultaneous connection of capacitive and inductive loads, this can cause failure of the device.
Dimmer connection diagrams
The design of a rotary dimmer is very simple, but may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. The main difference is the quality of the assembly itself and components. The principle of operation of the dimmer is as follows: in order for the light bulb to light up, current must pass through the triac. A dimmer, like an ordinary switch, must be connected to the open circuit of the load power supply that is supplied to the lamps.
There are the following connection diagrams for dimmers:
- Regulation from one place. A similar circuit is considered typical for connecting a light controller. With such a scheme, it is best to install a touch or push dimmer. Since the rotary dimmer will be inconvenient to turn on.
- Regulation from two places. This connection diagram is prescribed for the bedroom. It is customary to install one device at the entrance, and the second one near the bed. This will make it convenient to go into the bedroom, turn on the light, and dim the brightness when watching TV.
- Regulation from one place, and the control process from two. This circuit is the most optimal when connecting a dimmer. It can be used in any situation. At the entrance to the bedroom, a switch is installed, and a regulator is installed near the bed, as well as for lighting the two-level ceiling.
- Regulation from one place, and control procedure from three. A similar dimmer connection diagram is suitable when you need to turn lighting on and off in several places. For example, in the case of long corridors and stairs. In addition to the dimmer, you also need two pass-through switches.
Installing a dimmer
In terms of its installation dimensions and mounting, the dimmer is similar to an ordinary switch. As a result, the installation process is carried out in the same way as a switch. The procedure for connecting a dimmer is no different from the procedure when using a regular keyboard player. The only additional condition stated by the manufacturer is that the terminals are connected to the phase and load.
To replace a switch with a dimmer, you will need the following materials and tools: pliers, a knife, a screwdriver, an indicator screwdriver, insulating tape and the dimmer itself, which needs to be installed. First, start by dismantling the old switch. Turn off the electricity and check that there is no voltage.
All work must be carried out in compliance with safety precautions! Touching metal parts and exposed cables that are live is dangerous to human life. To gain access to the fastening elements that hold the switch in the wall, and the fastening elements that secure the electrical wires, it is necessary to remove the parts of the device (decorative panel, key) covering the fastening elements.
Taking into account the design features of each switch, unscrew the screws, press out or pick out the corresponding clamps. Having gained access to the switch terminals, you need to use a phase indicator to check that there is no voltage on them, as well as on the wire connected to it. Disconnect the cable from the terminals while loosening the screws. Remove the switch from the wall, making sure that the insulation of the wires is not damaged.
Then evaluate by visual inspection the condition and type of insulation and conductive core of the wire. If there are torn or broken bare parts of the wire, restore their length by stripping the insulation to an amount sufficient to connect to the terminals. Using pliers, you need to shape the ends of the cable into a shape that is considered most convenient for connecting to the dimmer. If there are areas with damaged insulation, they should be insulated with insulating tape.
After this, install the dimmer. To do this, remove the protective and decorative elements from the dimmer to provide access to the fasteners. Connect the prepared wires to the terminals of the device and check the strength of the connection by pulling the cable slightly from the terminal. The length of the bare part of the cable that protrudes beyond the terminal should not be more than 2-3 millimeters. If this requirement is not met, cut part of the exposed area to a suitable length or insulate the excess exposed area with electrical tape.
Avoiding damage to the insulation, carefully insert the dimmer into the place of the dismantled switch with the connected wires. Press the housing of the dimmer against the wall and tighten the screws of the spacer blades that secure the dimmer. Assemble the device by installing the protective and decorative elements that were removed before installation into place.
Just remember that, unlike an ordinary switch, which works regardless of the connection order, the incoming and outgoing wires must be correctly connected to the dimmer. The terminal of the device marked with the letter L is intended for the supply wire. Of course, many dimmers can work when connected like a simple switch, but despite this, they must be connected correctly.
Apply voltage by turning on the circuit breaker in the electrical panel or by replacing the unscrewed fuses. Turn on the mounted dimmer and set the desired light level. If switches have not yet been installed in the apartment, you should find out how to connect a dimmer in this situation. After all, you need to take some preliminary steps.
Start by preparing the location for installing the dimmer. Determine the height that is convenient for you at which you will install the device. Make a mark on the wall. Drill it using a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit with a diameter of 68 millimeters. Insert the installation box into the resulting hole and secure it. Punch a groove from the junction box to the installation area and lay the wire in it. Next, you need to proceed according to the scheme already described above.
If the wire connection and installation of the dimmer are correct, the device will allow you to smoothly regulate the lighting in the room, depending on the time of day and mood. Just remember to pay attention to its power when choosing a dimmer, having first calculated the total power of the lighting fixtures.
